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Posted in Building A-Z on Oct 09
 Whenever considering replacement windows, you should always try to replace an existing window with one that maintains or enhances the character and kerb appeal of your property. A tip offered by local window fitters in London is to look at the window that is to be replaced from both the inside and outside before deciding on how many openings and fixed panels you require – remembering that a window can be a means of escape in the event of a fire which prevents you leaving the room via the door. New replacement windows can also improve the appeal and value of your home and save you money!
When measuring up for a replacement window, measure the width and breadth of the old window at a number of points. Windows – especially wooden ones – tend to warp and loose their shape over the 20-30 years they usually spend in people´s houses, and finding any discrepancies before you start will help when it comes to fitting a replacement window.
Types of Replacement Window
Wooden Replacement Windows
Standard sized wooden windows are often treated with preservative to meet NHBC (National House Building Council) requirements and are available in both hardwood and softwood finishes. Many are already double-glazed and weather sealed, meaning that you can have your replacement windows installed by a window fitter in London without the need to paint them afterwards.
Metal Replacement Windows
Old metal windows may rust, but modern replacement windows are galvanised to prevent the aging effects of the elements. They are strong and slim and often fit into existing wooden frames. Metal replacement windows are available in various styles and sizes, and should be painted with coats of primer, undercoat and gloss paint.
Aluminium Replacement Windows
Aluminium windows are available in various styles and sizes, and usually double glazed ready to install. Like metal windows, they are they are rigid and stylish, and also often fit into existing wooden frames. Replacement windows with aluminium frames only usually require washing down, but wooden sub frames surrounding them will require preserving and varnishing or painting.
uPVC Replacement Windows
uPVC replacement windows have become popular because of their economy, low maintenance and good insulation. Available in various styles and sizes, double glazed and ready to install, uPVC replacement windows can have their energy saving qualities enhanced with low emissivity (Low-E) glass – further details of which can be found on our post about Energy Efficient Windows .
As well as offering instructions on how to install a replacement window, Mr Skill suggests that you ask a local window fitter in London to give you advice on which is the best replacement window to suit your property´s appearance and your pocket. Remember that replacing like-for-like windows does not need permission from Building Control, but does have to conform to Building Regulations Part N.
Tags: add value to your property, aluminium, Building Control, Building Regulations Part N, energy efficiency, find a window fitter, glass, Home Improvements, Kerb Appeal, metal, paint, replacement windows, uPVC, Window & Door Fitting, window fitter quotes, wood
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Posted in Building A-Z on Oct 06
Most DIY enthusiasts, handymen and builders in London will have a case full of different drill bits to cope with different drilling tasks. Wood drill bits, metal drill bits and masonry drill bits are the three most common, and inasmuch as many people appreciate that the drill bits are manufactured for specific tasks, not a lot of people know why drill bits are designed the way they are and how best to use them.
Drilling Wood
 Almost any drill bit can be used for drilling a hole in a soft wood, but the “lip and spur” drill bit is best to use. It has a centring point which keeps the drill bit steady against the wood (the “spur”) whilst the raised corners of the drill bit cut through fibres within the grain of the wood cleanly – before the inner parts of the cutting edges plane off the base of the hole. Also ideal for drilling through soft plastics, the “lip and spur” is usually used in sizes from 3mm (1/8th inch) to 16mm (5/8th inch).
 For wider holes, spade or paddle bits are recommended. These are flat-headed drill bits with a centring point and two cutters which are equipped with spurs to enable a cleaner cutting edge.
Augur wood drill bits are made with a spur, single cutting edge and a “flute” for removing waste from the drilled hole and are particularly useful for drilling deep holes in wooden surfaces.
 Drilling Metal
There are many different types of drill bits for drilling through metal, and your choice of bit should depend on the type of metal you are drilling through (steel, stainless steel or aluminium for example) and the size of hole that you wish to make. The larger the hole, the more friction will be created and the hotter the drill bit will become leading to overheating and damage to the drill bit. Most power drill handbooks provided recommended drilling speeds for drilling through metal and you can also refer to Mr Skill´s Project Advice article on “How to Drill Through Metal” and our “Drill Speed Chart”.
The cheaper metal drill bits are made from high carbon steel, but lose their cutting edge quickly if allowed to overheat. Therefore, most builders in London have a preference for “high speed steel” which can be used to drill through metal, hardwood and most other materials at higher speeds. Although being more brittle than “high speed steel”, drill bits made from cobalt steel alloys hold their hardness at much higher temperatures, whilst tungsten carbide drill bits are the toughest of the lot. Due to its expense, tungsten carbide – and polycrystalline diamond (PCD) – is most commonly used on the tips of metal cutting drill bits.
Coatings are frequently used on metal cutting drill bits to provide heat resistance and increase lubricity. The most common are black oxide and titanium nitrate, which can extend the life of a drill bit three or four times, although the benefits or titanium aluminium nitride and titanium carbon nitride are worth the expense if you do a lot of drilling through metals such as stainless steel and nickel alloys.
Drilling Masonry
 Masonry bits are usually used with a hammer drill by builders in London. The bit is both hammered and rotated into the masonry – the hammering breaks up the masonry at the drill bit tip, whilst the rotating flutes of the drill bit body carry away the dust. Rotating the bit brings the cutting edges in contact with a fresh portion of the hole with every hammer blow.
 Masonry bits of the style shown are commonly available in diameters from 5mm (¼ inch) to 40mm (1½ inches). For larger diameters, core bits are used. Masonry bits up to 1000mm (39 inches) long can be used with hand-portable power tools, and are very effective for installing wiring and plumbing.
This is only a selection of the most common drill bits used in home improvement. If you require any further information on specialist drilling tools, please consult one of the highly rated builders in London featured in our Tradesmen´s Directory.
Tags: aluminium, builder, drill, drill bits, drill speeds, drilling masonry, drilling metal, drilling wood, Find a Builder in London, find a handyman in London, General Builders, hammer, Handyman Services, masonry, Plumbing, power drills, stainless steel, steel, wiring
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Posted in Building A-Z on Oct 06
When drilling metals, it is always advisable to follow the instructions included in the manufacturer´s instruction book. If you have mislaid it or one was not supplied with your variable speed drill, please use the table below as a guide. The speeds in this guide are based on “high speed drill” bits and should be adjusted accordingly for cobalt steel alloys and titanium carbon nitride tipped drill bits.
For the best information on power tools and how to use them, speak with one of the highly rated local builders in London featured in our Tradesmen´s Directory.
Tags: drill, drill bits, drilling speeds, Find a Builder in London, power drills, Tradesmen´s Directory
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Posted in Building A-Z on Sep 29
 Energy Performance Certificates (EPCs) were introduced in October 2008 to help improve the energy efficiency of buildings and even though the Home Information Packs (HIPS) are no longer a requirement, anybody selling or renting a home or commercial premises needs to produce an EPC certificate by law. Energy Performance Certificates provide ‘A’ to ‘G’ ratings for the building, with ‘A’ being the most energy efficient and ‘G’ being the least efficient. They are produced by independently accredited energy assessors who are usually attached to a surveyor´s office or estate agents, and are required when “a building has a roof and walls and uses energy to condition an indoor climate”. This means it has heating, air conditioning or mechanical ventilation. For example, a garden shed would not need an EPC if it doesn’t have any heating.
Builders in London marketing off-plan construction projects have to provide a Predicted Energy Assessment (PEA) to potential purchasers with a full energy performance certificate on completion and if a building is made up of separate units, each with its own heating system, each unit will need an EPC.
The only exceptions from this legal requirement are-
- Places of worship
- Temporary buildings with an expected lifespan of less than 2 years
- Buildings with appropriate permissions for demolition and re-development
- Stand alone buildings of less than 50m2 of useful floor area
- Non-residential buildings that do not use energy to condition the indoor climate – such as barns or car parks.
If you have not yet seen an Energy Performance Certificate, please click on this link – Example Energy Performance Certificate (pdf file 118Kb) – or ask your local builder in London on how you can save energy and save money at the same time.
Mr-Skill.co.uk also has a series of blogs that may be of interest to you including details on:-
Energy Efficient Windows
Draught Proofing
Compact Fluorescent Light Bulbs
Vampire Power
Tags: builder, compact fluorescent light bulb, Construction, draught proofing, energy, energy efficiency, Energy Performance Certificates, energy saving, Find a Builder in London, heating, Home Information Packs, London builder, roof, vampire power, ventilation, wall, windows
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Posted in Building A-Z on Aug 21
 The terms coving and cornices are frequently used interchangeably to describe an angled finish where a wall joins a ceiling. However as a London builder will explain, coving is the straight area between two horizontal corners and a cornice is the decorative moulding which masks the join where necessary between two pieces of coving. Coving and Cornices can also be used both internally and externally to create some incredible effects – see what our London builders have done on our “Inspiration” pages – or they can be integrated into a fantastic interior design program with matching architraves, skirting and dado rails.
 Originally interior coving and cornices were made from plaster and became very popular during the 17th and 18th centuries as wealthy house owners demanded more and more ornate cornices to display their wealth. During Victorian times, the use of covings became more popular in more modest formats, and the Victorians also introduced the picture rail – a matching parallel strip several feet below the coving.
In modern homes, coving is likely to be very simple but still fulfils the same function – to hide the line where surfaces meet. Modern coving and cornices are almost all made from plastic or polystyrene, although plaster, gypsum and timber is available, usually at a greater cost. Coving is a simple way to finish off the look of a room and does not require any special skills to erect, just care and attention. Coving is especially useful when a new stud wall has been erected or a ceiling has been replaced, and fitting a cornice will remove the need to undertake detailed finishing of the corner where the wall and ceiling meet.
Coving and Cornices come in a range of materials:-
Plaster coving is expensive, heavy and easy to damage, however provides a more solid, impressive look to a room. You need to take precautions when putting up plaster coving as messy hands marks can be left on the plaster and surrounding walls and ceilings. Plaster coving can be painted with either emulsion or gloss to compliment the decor of your room once it is in place.
Paper Covered Gypsum is a medium weight option which is fairly robust but definitely needs to be painted after it is installed.
Polyurethane is a lighter coving which is also strong and also needs painting once you have it in the right location.
Polystyrene is a very light and very inexpensive choice for coving. It is easy to damage and has that typical polystyrene bubble finish, so will need careful handling and painting with emulsion.
Timber coving is light, flexible and easy to use. It is more appropriate in darken rooms with a wood theme and needs painting or varnishing once installed as it can discolour unevenly.
If you would like to find out more about coving and cornices, and the difference they can make to a room, speak to one of the builders in London featured in our Tradesmen´s Directory or alert London builders to your requirements by filling out a request in our “Post-a-Job” facility at the top of the page.
Tags: architrave, cornice, coving, dado, General Builders, gypsum, moulding, Plastering & Drywall, skirting, timber
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Posted in Building A-Z on Aug 21
 An architrave is the decorative moulding fitted around the casings of internal doors, windows, and loft hatches to hide the joint between the wall or ceiling and the timber casings. It comes in a variety of materials – although most commonly wood – and masks any subsequent shrinkage and movement between the door or window casing and the wall.
Architrave should be fitted by a London builder after all wall surfaces have been finished (but not decorated) and before fitting skirting board and doors. For one side of a door or window casing, three lengths of architrave are normally required – one horizontal head piece and two vertical side pieces. For a loft hatch, four pieces of architrave are normally required with mitres at each end of all four pieces.
 Where the elements of the architrave meet, the corners are usually mitred – with a typical, square topped casing, the corners meet at rightangles (90 degrees) so the mitre cuts on each piece of architrave should be 45 degrees. However, in older properties, doors, windows and walls bow and shrink with age (don´t we all!), so the exact angle may be questionable. In this case, angles will need to be measured individually and cut accordingly.
Architrave is normally fitted by a builder in London so that it sits back from the inside of the casing timber by about 5 to 10mm. Too narrow a spacing will restrict the knuckle of the doors´ hinges, whereas a larger margin may reduce the overlap of the architrave onto the casing and reduce the available area for putting in nails and supporting the architrave. In most cases, try to keep the style of architrave and the margin the same throughout a property, although in some cases this may not be possible (nor desirable).
In you are thinking or replacing an existing architrave, or installing a new one, have a look at our “Project Advice” on how to fit an architrave, or speak to one of the builders in London featured in our Tradesmen´s Directory.
Tags: architrave, coving, door frame, doors and windows, Find a Builder in London, General Builders, mitre saw, plastering, skirting, timber, Window & Door Fitting, window casing
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Posted in Building A-Z on Aug 05
 Mortice locks are one of the best ways of securing your property from unauthorised entry. Installed within the framework of doors and windows, their use is recommended by the police and security firms and often insisted upon by insurance companies. Local tradesmen are also keen to promote security within their districts, and will only supply mortice locks which comply with the British Standard 3621 (2004) or better.
The lock is so effective because it fits snugly into a pocket within the door frame and is guarded on either side by “strike plates”, which prevent the potential of the lock being drilled out. The lock can normally be opened from either side of the door (via an element known as the “Deadlock”)and contains standard size parts in the event that the lock becomes damaged or you wish to replace the lock after a move to a new home or in the event that you have mislaid your keys.
Mortice Locks can have between 2 to 7 internal levers – the more there are, the harder they are to pick – and it is recommended that external doors have locks with at least 5 levers, whilst 3 levers is the accepted number for internal doors. However, if you are a tenant, student or somebody living in a communal dwelling, it is also suggested that you have a minimum 5 lever mortice lock at the entrance to your rooms(s) even when there is one on the main entrance.
The correct fitting of a mortice lock requires skill and accuracy to ensure maximum security, as the lock has to perfectly match up with a strike plate inserted into the doorframe pocket. Although replacing an existing mortice lock may be a job that an experience DIY-er can perform, it is recommended that you employ the services of one of the highly rated tradesmen featured in our Tradesmen’s Directory for new installations.
uPVC doors, leading into your garden or on an external conservatory, can suffer damage if you attempt to fit a mortice lock after the doors have been supplied. Sometimes, this added security measure may in fact invalidate the guarantee from the supplier. If you feel that you need the additional protection of a mortice lock on an existing uPVC door, please use the “Post-a-Job” facility at the top of the page to alert a local tradesman to your problem and they will get back in touch.
Tags: British Standard, Dead Lock, doorframes, doors, five lever lock, insurance, keys, mortice lock, protection, secure your property, security, spindle, Strike Plate, three lever lock, windows
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Posted in Building A-Z on Aug 05
 As the government pursue their initiative to reduce CO2 emissions, the discontinuation of traditional incandescent light bulbs means that many homeowners will discover that they have no choice than to switch to compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs). Although the savings in terms of operating costs are to the advantage of the homeowner, many local tradesmen have reported that there is a reluctance to “make the switch” due to the perception that the new CFLs are unsightly, inefficient and potentially hazardous.
Modern energy saving light bulbs fit into most existing light fixtures and emit the same amount of visible light whilst only using a fraction of the power compared to traditional light bulbs. Since they first appeared on the market, technological advances have led to CFLs becoming smaller in size (in line with traditional incandescent light bulbs), quicker to light and more compatible with dimmer switches (which used to cause the CFL to flicker).
The phasing out of the old “A-type” bulbs has already started with 60w and 100w no longer available on our shelves, and 40w bulbs to follow suit in January. It is estimated that there are still 600 million incandescent bulbs in use in the UK and if each household in the UK replaced just three 60-watt bulbs with light efficient equivalents, the pollution savings would be equivalent to taking 3.5 million cars off the road plus save in excess of £87million in electricity bills.
There is a great “Questions and Answers” section on the Energy Saving Trust web site or, if you would rather, you can put any question you may have to our database of electricians in London by using the “Post-a-Job” facility at the top of the page. They will be happy to visit your property and offer a no-obligation electricians quote on converting your existing incandescent light bulbs to the more efficient CFLs. Although there ultimately will be a charge for the work if you choose to proceed, the money you save on electricity in the first year should more than likely cover any cost.
Please note: There is a very slight risk to health through chemicals contained in CFL light bulbs and, if you should have a broken bulb in your home you should refer to our article on How to Remove a Broken Compact Fluorescent Light or speak to a local electrician listed in our Tradesmen´s Directory. More information about CFL light bulbs can be found on the DEFRA (Department of Environment) web site.
Tags: CFL bulbs, CFL light bulbs, CO2 emissions, compact fluorescent light bulb, dimmer switch, electric current, electrical circuit, electricity, Energy Saving Trust, incandescent light bulbs, pollution, save environment, save money, ventilation
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Posted in Building A-Z on Aug 04
 Taps have a bigger influence on our lives than you may have ever considered. They play a vital role in controlling the flow of water throughout our homes washing, cooking, heating and cleaning. Outside your home you will find them in the garden, in the garage and in the shed, providing water for irrigation, hosing down the patio and cleaning the car.
Living in a hard water area such as London, local tradesmen are frequently called out to descale and repair taps that are suffering from corrosion, and a leaking tap – although more of a nuisance than a catastrophe – can leave lime scale on ceramic bathroom furnishings, around stainless steel kitchen fittings and damage the internal workings of a washing machine or central heating system.
Taps can also enhance the look of your kitchen or bathroom with a vast selection of styles available. The new kitchen “Tri-Flow” taps available from your local tradesman incorporates a filtered water drinking system for the health of your family, or you may prefer a more contemporary look with designer taps to match your lifestyle. Our “Inspirations” blog has several ideas on how you can transform an ordinary bathroom into something incredible, or you may want to try something completely different – like introducing a water feature into your garden.
Whether you have a problem with corrosion and leaking taps, or would like to replace old and tired taps for a more up-to-date look, please use the “Post-a-Job” facility above to alert local tradesmen in your area to your request, or contact one of our highly rated tradesmen featured in the Tradesmen´s Directory.
Tags: bathroom fittings, bathroom taps, Central Heating, corrosion, filtered water, Garden, kitchen taps, leaking tap, patio, shed, taps, washing machine
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Posted in Building A-Z on Jul 30
 Inasmuch as staircases are one of the main focal points of a house – especially when you first enter – they are one of the least acknowledged areas of your home until something goes wrong! Whether you consider your staircase to be just a functional item in your house or something which compliments your decor, it needs to be maintained in a safe, secure manner.
London landlords in particular will be aware of the implications of damaged stairways, and our local tradesmen are happy to offer advice regarding any repairs that are required, and also offer suggestions about alterations to create more space in your home. For the more adventurous DIY-er, cracked, creaking and ill-fitting stairs can normally be replaced in a few hours, and you can review our project advice on how to make small repairs if you click here. More bespoke items, such as decorative newels or balusters, may require the services of a local tradesman to manufacture and fit your individual item.
The term “stairs” can apply to the staircase within your home that provides access from floor to floor, an external passage to your front door, steps up to decking in your garden or into your attic, and can be made in any number of designs and from a variety of materials. If you are considering new or replacement steps in any part of your property, please consult with one of the recommended tradesmen in our tradesmen’s directory, who will be pleased to offer a no-obligation builders quote for repairs to an existing staircase or installation of a new stairway.
Different Types of Staircase
 Straight Staircases are found in most older homes. They are literally what they say – a straight staircase rising from the floor level of the ground floor up to the landing area of the first floor. As many straight staircases tend to be as old as the property they were initially installed in, they are usually well worn and in need of repair or replacement. Some minor work can be done yourself, however if you are contemplating replacing an entire staircase you should use the services of a recommended tradesman.
 A Quarter Landing Staircase is one where the lower stairs start at a 90 degree angle to main staircase. Normally there are four or five stairs leading to a small landing, where after a “quarter turn” (hence the name) is required to continue the ascent/descent of the staircase. Winder Staircases are similar to Quarter Landing Staircases inasmuch as they involve a 90 degree turn during the ascent/descent, however the change in direction is more natural and influence by angled stair risers rather than a dedicated landing area.
 Half Landing Staircases are staircases with a landing half way up/down. These staircases normally require a change in direction of 180 degrees when ascending/descending, and are good for shorter, wider hallways where a full straight staircase may not fit in, or would mean that the gradient of ascent was much steeper. You could speak with your local builder about converting your existing straight staircase to a narrower Half Landing Staircase to create more space in the entrance to your property.
 Spacesaver Staircases have alternating treads and are a particularly viable option for people who have a limited amount of space in their house and want to create more. These are particularly recommended by our highly rated builders for use in loft conversions, however are right on the limit to comply with building regulations in terms of their gradient and are unsuitable for the elderly. It is also recommended that you add a supporting handrail to these staircases for additional safety.
 Spiral Stairs not only give a room a modern appearance but create a considerable amount of space compared to a traditional straight staircase. You may want to consider consulting your local builder about replacing your existing staircase with something more space efficient, as this will not only vreate space on the ground level but also on the first as well. They can also have an attractive external function – possibly leading down from a first floor balcony to a patio or garden.
Ultimately, the type of staircase you have in your home is only limited by your imagination and budget. If you have an idea for a staircase, you should discuss your proposal with a local builder who will be familiar with the Building Regulations in respect of new staircase installations and will advise you accordingly. For some initial guidance, please review the section below regarding regulations for domestic staircases.
Planning Permission and Building Regulations
Your local builder would advise you that planning permission for new or replacement staircases is not normally required unless part of conversion or extension that would require planning permission anyway. However, Building Regulations apply to all alterations and installation of internal and external stairs carried out by your local builder, with the relevant sections being-
Part K – This section relates to the design, construction and installation of the stairs.
Part B – This section covers fire safety and means of escape. Please note that there was a revisions document issued in March 2010 for this PDF. Please click here to access it.
Part M – This section is only applicable in certain circumstances (e.g. Spiral Staircases or Ships Ladders) where access for the disabled may be required.
You can download each of the documents by clicking on the bold link, although the key points of Part K in respect of domestic staircases are listed below-
- The tread size (horizontal part of each stair) must be a minimum of 220mm from front to back, with the riser (height of each step) between 190mm and 220mm.
- A staircase with open risers (vertical gaps between each step) which is likely to be use by children under 5 years of age must be constructed in such a way that a sphere of 100mm cannot be passed between the open risers -effectively, it stops kids getting their heads stuck!
- Similarly, where children are involved, balusters (stair-railings) cannot have a gap of more than 100mm for the same reason.
- Although there are no recommendations for minimum staircase widths (the domestic standard is 860mm), there must be at least one handrail if the staircase is up to a metre in width, and two handrails if over a metre.
- There must be clear headroom of two metres above a domestic staircase, with a staircase landing provided at the top of each flight of stairs.
- One very significant regulation concerning the construction of new staircases is that the gradient or angle of ascent/descent must not exceed 42 degrees. This regulation influences the height and depth of step that you may be intending to install.
Further information relating to stairs can be found in our “Inspirations” section and our blog on “Improving the Value and Appeal of Your Home”. For minor repairs to existing staircases, please see our “Project Advice” or consult with one of the highly rated tradesmen in our “Tradesmen’s Directory”.
Stair Glossary
Banister – another term for handrail.
Curtail/Bullnose Step – This is a term relating to the bottom step of the staircase which normally protrudes out to the front and side creating a larger first tread. Also useful for inserting a gate to prevent small children and animals accessing the stairs.
Fascia – The vertical board beneath the edge of an exposed landing.
Finial – An ornamental decoration placed on top of a newel post (The obstacle that prevents children sliding down the banisters).
Newel Posts – The vertical, stronger post inserted in a turn, or at the end, of a handrail/banister.
 Nosing – The front lip of a tread.
Risers – Risers are the vertical side of the step, or the term may relate to the gap between treads when an open space is left between stairs.
Spindles/Balusters – These are the vertical posts which are attached to the outer strings which supports the handrail.
Strings – The strings are located either side of the staircase. The inner string is situated against the wall of the property, while the outer string is the side of the staircase which is open to view and into which the balusters and newels are placed. May also be known as “Skirting”.
Treads – These are the horizontal part of the step.
Wedge – A block (usually wooden) which secures the riser to the tread.
Tags: baluster, banister, building regulations, bullnose step, curtail step, finial, handrail, Home Improvements, interior decoration, newel, nosing, planning permission, refurbish, riser, spindle, spiral stairs, staircases, stairs, string, tradesman, tread, winder stairs
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Whenever considering replacement windows, you should always try to replace an existing window with one that maintains or enhances the character and kerb appeal of your property. A tip offered by local window fitters in London is to look at the window that is to be replaced from both the inside and outside before deciding on how many openings and fixed panels you require – remembering that a window can be a means of escape in the event of a fire which prevents you leaving the room via the door. New replacement windows can also improve the appeal and value of your home and save you money!
