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Mr-Skill often baulks at situations requiring him to drill holes through tiles, simply because it is such a risky task. The alternatives are to use contact adhesive or two-sided tape, neither of which are ideal in the long term. Fred is one of our regular London tilers, and he advises that drilling through tiles is quite straightforward once you know what to do.
Your Choice
Essentially, there are two safe methods of making holes through your tiles. Well, you could add a third if you decide to rather find a tiler and leave the problem to them! The first method is to locate your holes precisely on the grout line that separates one tile from the other. The other way is more nerve-racking, because it involves drilling through the tile-face itself.
A somewhat nervous Mr-Skill says that before you choose one of these two options, make sure you have a spare tile to replace the broken or cracked one should things go wrong. Nothing is more eye-catching than looking at a broken or cracked tile, or having to use a mismatched replacement one.
Decision Time
Should you find that you have no back-up spares, you need to choose between using the grout line, and drilling through your lovely tiles. You could of course elect to get a tiling quote to sort the problem, but that could prove quite expensive when all you need is a couple of holes!
Enter Fred Again!
Fred is against using grout lines for drilling holes, and that is because you have limited space in which to work, and grout is not the ideal medium to hold a plug and screw either. He goes on to say, “Imagine the consequences of the bit jamming in the grout line as you drill. Rather mark up your holes as desired on the tile face itself. Then, you need to test to see that the tiles you plan to drill through don’t have air space where they attach to the wall. A simple tap with your knuckle will soon confirm if there are any hollow gaps to be avoided.” Thanks for the tips, Fred!
Easy Does It
Once your holes are marked (and checked), stick two pieces of magic tape over each marked hole in the form of a cross. This is to stop the tile from crazing as you drill. Gently tap a pointed punch to create a small guide hole for you to drill out further with a new masonry bit. Now drill slowly and make your hole to the desired depth. Once you have drilled through the tile – you should feel this happen – you can safely use the hammer function on your power tool.
Tags: adhesive, cracked tile, depth, drill, drilling, find a tiler, grout, guide, hammer, hole, london tiler, plug, power tool, replacement tile, safety, screw, spare, tap, tile, tiling quote
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Posted in Tiling & Flooring on Aug 29
If you are a ‘handy’ person, jobs such as tiling around the home could be something you can tackle yourself. Make no mistake though, tiling is not a job for the inexperienced first-timer, although we all have to start somewhere. Here at Mr-Skill we often have friendly chats with our many pre-screened members, and it really is amazing what comes up in discussion. 
Take tiling over existing wall tiles for example. Many less-experienced tilers shrug their shoulders and walk away from such ideas. Fred is one of our regular London tiling and flooring experts, and he believes that this is quite in order, provided the existing surface is stable and crack-free. As always, you need to plan properly and carefully though!
Ready, steady…
Before we start, we assume you have done your research and have everything you’ll need. If you have decided not to go-it-alone, you can always find a tiling and flooring specialist through Mr-Skill. Remember to ask for the “special discount”.
Go…
Begin with a thorough inspection of every tile and each grout line. Check the existing tiles for stability – a gentle tap with your knuckles will soon confirm any underlying problem zones. When it comes to the grout, you need to use a putty knife to look for loose or crumbling fill. Remember, if you have problems at the outset, you’ll have major headaches at the finish if you tile over unstable surfaces! 
Cleaning and Preparing
The surface you are tiling over must be squeaky clean and grease/soap/wax free, so use a quality tile cleaner to prepare the old tiles for covering.
You are now ready to apply the pre-mixed adhesive slurry to the wall surface to facilitate proper bonding when you start gluing down the new tiles. Let the slurry dry completely before continuing. Remember to adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Don’t be Shy
If you think the preparation work is hard enough, imagine how hard the tiling job itself can be. If in doubt, rather get a tiling quote – Mr-Skill is on hand and has a number of keen experts ready to solve your problems! And at a third-off market rates too!
Tags: cleaning, cracks, DIY, find a tiling-and-flooring specialist, glue, grout, inspection, London tiling and flooring, loose grout, preparation, putty knife, slurry, surface, tile on tile, tiling, tiling-and-flooring quote, wall tile
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Posted in Tiling & Flooring on Jul 19
It’s quite amazing how even knowing about a cracked tile in the home can have us wondering just what to do about it. One of our London tilers summed it up quite nicely when he mentioned how his colleagues seldom thought to offer the homeowner a couple of extra tiles to hold as spares for future breakages. Easy for him, we hear you say, but how difficult is repairing a tile in any case? The answer – quite simple, if you observe the following advice offered by Mr-Skill: 
Taking Stock
Throwing your arms up in frustration is not going to solve the problem, but following these simple steps is likely to have you smiling. Even so, some people are simply not motivated to make repairs like this themselves. If this describes you, rather find a tiler to do the job for you. Mr-Skill has a number of experts lined up. They have all been pre-screened, and the good news is that there are some great discounts on normal prices but you ought to move fast!
What You’ll Need
A special epoxy glue and catalyst set – buy this at any hardware store, but make sure you choose one suitable for ceramic tiles. Also have a putty knife or paint scraper available to mix and apply the resin.
Buy a small sample tin or bottle of oil-based paint to match as closely as possible the tile colour. Oh, and get yourself a small tin of clear polyurethane lacquer too, not forgetting a fine-artist’s brush. If this all sounds complicated, you could also get a tiling repair quote on Mr-Skill.
Step 1
Clean the tile and surrounding area thoroughly, and make sure the wall or floor surface is dry before you start the repair.
Step 2
Mix sufficient epoxy glue and resin together, observing the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Now fill the crack with the mix, using the paint scraper or putty knife.
Step 3
Wipe off any surplus above the crack line and leave the repair to dry completely.
Step 4
Now you can carefully paint over the repair and leave this to dry as well. 
Finally, it is advisable to apply a coat of polyurethane lacquer over the painted area and leave it to dry. Job completed, and it’s time to pop the kettle on and make a nice cuppa to enjoy while you admire your handiwork. Don’t forget to thank Mr-Skill for this wonderful free advice.
Tags: brush, catalyst, clean, cracked tile, epoxy, find a tiling expert, fixing, floor, glue, homeowner, lacquer, london tiler, paint, paint scraper, polyurethane, putty knife, resin, tile, tiling quote, wall
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Posted in Tiling & Flooring on Jun 01
Tiling over an existing cement floor for the first time needs careful preparation, if you want the finished job to appear perfectly smooth. You will have to ensure that the sub-floor is level, while filling all holes and imperfections too. This is because untreated holes have a habit of expanding, and you don’t want this happening under your newly tiled floor!
What You’ll Need for this Moderately Difficult Job
In this article, we are assuming that you know your way around tiling, having tiled before. If this is not the case, rather find a tiling and flooring specialist here on Mr-Skill. As with all DIY work, always think safety first: 
- Goggles, cold chisel, hammer, vacuum cleaner, paintbrush, bonding liquid, tile cement, trowel and plaster float.
- A good pair of plastic gloves to protect your hands.
If you have any doubt about your ability to do the work, this would be a good time to get a tiling and flooring quote right here.
The Preparation Process
Level the cement floor using the hammer and chisel, making sure to clean out any holes and other imperfections. Don’t forget the goggles to avoid flying cement chips. Remember, your tile cement won’t adhere to feathered and uneven surfaces.
Be sure to rim out holes to get a good bonding surface, and then vacuum the entire floor to remove all dust and debris. Wipe the surface with a clean damp cloth to ensure that it is dirt-free.
Apply the bonding liquid to the clean cement floor, making sure it penetrates the holes too. Now, mix the required amount of cement according to the maker’s instructions, and apply it in the holes and hollows. 
Be sure to spread the cement over all patching areas – as well as into corners and ridges – as you apply it across the floor working from the furthest corner. The end result should be a perfectly flat tiling area with no holes or other imperfections.
As you go along, use the trowel and float to smooth and evenly spread the wet cement, not forgetting corners and ridges.
Finally, a tip from one of our London tilers and floorers – he says that you must wait a decent period for the surface to dry and bond properly before laying tiles. Depending on the weather conditions, allow at least four days.
Tags: bonding liquid, cement, corners, drying time, find a tiling-and-flooring specialist, holes, london-tiler-and-floorer, preparing, protective gear, ridges, screed, screeding, smooth, smoothing, sub floor, tiling, tiling experience, tiling-and-flooring quote, tools, wet
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Posted in Tiling & Flooring on May 14
 If you are looking for subtle ways of brightening up your bathroom, you could find that mosaic tiles are just the job. They can add texture as they come in a variety of shapes and patterns, and there’s a veritable kaleidoscope of colours to select from too. You can even add some of your own artistic ideas to get a sensational finish, and all your friends will think you’ve had the experts in! If you’re not quite so brave, perhaps you should find a tiling and flooring expert right here on Mr-Skill.
Tips on Design
If this is a first attempt at using mosaic tiles, it may be best to start with a simple concept. Even basic designs can look really impressive with bold highlights and a mix of complimentary colours. This form of tiling can be quite fiddly too, because each tile making up the mosaic needs to be positioned and glued in place individually. It can be quite similar to fitting pieces together in a jigsaw puzzle.
Tips on Colour Selection
Give some thought to the four components of colour, which are:
- Tone
- Temperature
- Hue
- Intensity
If colour composition is not your best subject, rather get a tiling quote right here.
Tone is the degree of lightness or darkness of a colour, whereas temperature refers to the warmth or coolness factor. Hue is the parent group of colours, including red, yellow and blue, while intensity indicates the depth of a particular colour choice.
Taking it a step further, colours of different hues, but with matching tones can be complimentary. However, colours of varying intensity or temperature could end up clashing. When you select your mosaics tiles, consider them in different colour combinations before setting them in glue. Moreover, as you work, glance away from the detail from time to time, so as to keep the bigger picture in your mind. It’s very easy to get confused otherwise!
Choosing Grout for Your Mosaics
The mix that we use to seal gaps between mosaic tiles is known as grout, and we use it to keep out unwanted dirt and dust too. Grout comes in many colour options, so you need to consider carefully, because your choice of grout finish can make or break the overall impact of your job. One of our regular London tiling and flooring specialists advises that if in doubt, use grey as your grout colour. That’s because grey is perfectly neutral, being halfway between black and white!
Tags: clash, colour, colour components, complimentary, coolness, design, find a tiling-and-flooring expert, grout, highlights, hue, intensity, london tiling-and-flooring specialist, mosaic tiles, temperature, texture, tiling-and-flooring quote, tone, warmth
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Posted in Tiling & Flooring on Apr 18
Alas, the lovely carpet you had fitted on the stairs is starting to show signs of wear – hardly surprising when you consider the traffic volume! No matter, a solution is at hand, and is reasonably easy to install yourself provided you are quite handy. The answer lies in a runner rug, which exactly covers the length and width of your existing carpet, and follows the rise and tread of each step too. Once installed, you will experience a luxury cushion effect feel under-foot, as the new rug hugs the old carpet to give off a luxury feel as you walk up or down the stairs.
Cautionary
This article caters for a single staircase with no landings and turns between the floors.
If the scope of work looks a little daunting for you, why not find a carpet fitter right here on Mr-Skill. Then just sit back and relax, and leave the detail to the experts!
Don’t Forget:
- Vacuum cleaner
- Carpet shampoo
- Tape measure
- Marker chalk
Due to the precise nature of this project, we have elected to describe the tasks over two articles. Part One guides you through the planning and preparation phase. The Second Article details the installation process, and follows Article One sequentially on Mr-Skill’s site. Alternatively, you could opt for the east life and get a carpet fitter quote through Mr-Skill instead.
Planning the Detail
Begin by thoroughly vacuuming the old stair carpet. Follow this up with a deep-cleaning shampoo, using a good quality product. Leave sufficient time for the old carpet to dry properly, and ask the household to avoid using the stairs unnecessarily.
Carefully measure the full length and width of the staircase. Now you need to find and mark the centre of each step along the full rise of stairs. Make sure you have equal borders on either side.
Count the number of risers and steps to determine the full length of the runner. Start at the top step, and measure each tread, and rise all the way down the stairs. Our regular London carpet fitters currently have specials on carpet and rug runner prices, so give them a call now! Don’t lose out on a bargain!
Article 2 follows below.
Tags: border, carpet shampoo, deep clean, equal gap, find a tiler and carpet fitter, london tillers and carpet fitters, marker chalk, measure, old carpet, planning, runner rug, strips, tape measure, tiler and carpet fitter quote, vacuum clean, velcro
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Posted in Tiling & Flooring on Apr 18
This is the Second Article on staircase runners, and details the installation process. Please refer to Article One, above, for the planning phase. To summarise, by now you should have calculated the width and length of the runner rug, and have purchased everything you’ll need. Before continuing, don’t forget that you can find a carpet fitter right here on Mr-Skill.
What You’ll Need
- Carpet tacks
- Velcro strips
- Finishing nails, hammer and cold chisel
- Runner rug
As an alternative, why not get a carpet fitter quote from one of our many professionals here on Mr-Skill.
Installation Steps:
- Cut the Velcro strips and secure them at the back of each tread and at the bottom of each rise. The strips should adhere tightly to the back of the runner. This method is preferred to using tacks, which can quickly form wear spots in the middle of the new rug. The strips should be around an inch or so narrower than the width of the runner, in order to conceal them.
- Attach the Velcro strips using finishing nails that easily pass through the old carpet and bite into the wood of the staircase. Keep to the principal of placing the nails about an inch away from the back of the tread and the bottom of the rise.
- Check the direction of the pile of the new runner and position it to face down the stairs. You can now begin installing it, starting at the top flight and finishing at the bottom.
- Gently hammer carpet tacks into the edges of the old carpet. Pull the runner rug taught towards the Velcro strip on the rise, then, place the rug over the tread. Secure the runner with carpet tacks every six inches, to prevent bunching and “creep”. Move down each stair and repeat.
- Anchor the end of the runner rug with floor trim, ensuring that the runner ends at the edge of the final tread and not the middle of the final rise.
One of our regular London carpet fitters says that if you get this far without incident or bad language, then you deserve a congratulatory cup of tea. Now, you can sit back and admire the new view, and you can tell the wife and kids to come out of hiding too! Just joking…honest!
Tags: border, carpet, carpet nails, chalk, cold chisel, find a tiler and carpet fitter, finishing tacks, hammer, london tiler and carpet fitter, measure, measure tape, runner rug, staircase, strips, tiling and carpet fitter quote, tread, velcro
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Posted in Tiling & Flooring on Mar 27
Fitting carpet tiles is a relatively simple job, if you are practical when it comes to DIY. Many of us prefer to engage the services of a professional, and find a carpet fitter through Mr-Skill instead. Carpet tiles are ideal for gluing down onto concrete floors, as well as wooden subfloors in good condition.
 Before you Start - As a cost comparison, why not arrange a free quote for carpet fitting through Mr-Skill. You could be pleasantly surprised at the cost!
The Process of Laying Carpet Tiles
- Ensure that the subfloor is well prepared. Surfaces to be tiled should not be uneven and be clean and dry – use a suitable flooring compound to smooth if necessary. Remember to switch off under-floor heating ahead of laying new carpet squares. Use plywood sheeting to cover wooden floors, securing with suitable nails every few inches.
- Chalk mark two lines across the room, ensuring that they intersect at 90-degrees in the room centre. Check that the guidelines meet where the room’s width allows for full tiles in the centre, fanning out to matching smaller tile cuts against the walls. That way, the carpet pattern makes for a pleasing visual effect.
 Use the applicator to spread glue across the back of the carpet square according to the glue-maker’s instructions. Allow for drying time before laying each tile. - Start laying the carpet squares from the central intersection of your chalk marks, and work in rows across the room with whole carpet squares for as far as possible. Check that your laying pattern is tracking straight with the room walls too.
- Avoid gaps between tiles by packing them tightly against each other, allowing the stich pattern to point in the same direction every time. Most carpet tiles have a pattern indicator arrow on the back to help you.
- Finish off by trimming the outside tile to fit snuggly against the walls on all four sides, and around doorframes and other fixtures.
Our expert carpet fitters in London love the finished effect that well fitted carpet tiles provide, not to mention the comfort-feel under foot! Mr-Skill has carpet fitters in most major postcodes – why not contact one today and get ready to transform your home.
Tags: applicator, arrow indicator, carpet fitters in london, carpet squares, carpet tiles, chalk marks, Find a carpet fitter, finishing cut, fitting carpet tiles, glue, nails, plywood, quote for carpet fitting, right angles, room centre, smooth, snug fit, straight line, subfloor, tight fit, trimming, uneven
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Posted in Tiling & Flooring on Feb 27
First you notice that the grout between the tiles has begun to crack. You wonder whether it’s time to Find a Tiler. After that, the grout starts going darker in one spot. Finally, when you tread on a tile, it rocks slightly as the moisture squishes out.
 Fortunately, this is not the end of the world! The good news is that the tile is loose and will be easy to remove. After that, you can have a Plumber in to fix the leak, and perhaps even replace the tile afterwards yourself.
- Avoid your first reaction to lever out the tile. Chances are that you will chip it, and where on earth will you find a replacement one? One London Tiler I know wets the loose tile generously, and then uses a toilet plunger to create a vacuum and gently ease it out. Try it. You could just be pleasantly surprised!
- Depending on how bad the leak is, you may need to turn the water off. If the water is not bubbling out from where you removed the first tile, you may need to chase the leak by removing several more. This is easy when you gently tap a paint scraper
 underneath the middle of the tile, because the mortar will be water-logged.
- Find a Plumber on Mr-Skill to repair the leak. Then wait patiently until the hole the plumber left behind has dried out completely. After that, back-fill it with a strong mix of mortar, and get a Tiling Quote to put the tiles back and re-grout. If you do the job yourself, use an epoxy as there will be insufficient space for tile cement except where the plumber made the hole.
This information comes to you with best wishes of Mr-Skill, that friendly website where you can find every service that you need. These services include electricians, builders, plasterers, carpenters, gardeners and a whole host more besides. The service costs you nothing, and they are all rated too.
Tags: back fill, chip, crack, dark, dry, epoxy, find a plumber, find a tiler, grout, lever, london tiler, loose, moisture, mortar, paint scraper, plumber, plunger, rated, remove, replace, rock, scraper, service, tap, tile, tiling quote, vacuum, water
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Posted in Tiling & Flooring on Jan 16
This one’s dead easy, although many people still don’t know the secret of how to do it properly. They end up balancing floor mosaics on a base of tile cement that thinks that it’s a bed of quicksand. You’ll might still Find a Tiler battling this way elsewhere too, although I should think not one from Mr-Skill.
 Lay the shower drain in place two tile thicknesses above the floor, and then construct the shower base around it using a single row of bricks laid flat. Think about the shower enclosure as you do. Your goal is to be able to position it symmetrically.
- Determine the fall you need. The simplest way is to measure up an existing shower, although I’ve always allowed a half-inch drop myself. Obtain a length of wood the thickness of the fall, by say one inch wide.
- Wrap the shower drain tightly in a piece of plastic sheet to prevent it from getting blocked. Lay pieces of the wood down flat around the inside of the shower base to create a frame. If this sounds too complicated, you could always Ask Mr-Skill to Arrange Tiling Quotes instead
- Obtain a supply of flooring screed. Combine this with cement in ratio of two-parts screed to one-part cement. Add water to create a moist but not runny mixture. Add a cup of bonding liquid too if you have some,
 so the mix will adhere really tightly to the base below and the tiles above.
- Wait fifteen minutes to allow the mixture to stiffen. Do not add more water. Trowel about half the screed you think you need into the shower base and smooth it out using a steel float and a flat piece of wood. Add more screed as needed
- Your goal is to slope the screed evenly between the strips of wood inside the shower base, and the floor slab two inches outside of the drain. Don’t panic if it isn’t perfect. You’ll be laying tiles over it after all.
- Three hours later, fidget out the strips of wood inside the shower base and fill in the gaps they leave behind with more screed. A week later, you could begin to tile!
This one of many tips I learned from London Tilers a thousand years ago when I was completing my apprenticeship. Some things never change, do they? Another consistent thing is the quality of service you’ll get from Mr-Skill.
Tags: adhere, base, bonding liquid, brick, cement, drain, drop, easy, enclosure, fall, find a tiler, float, floor, frame, gap, gradient, london tilers, mix, mixture, plastic sheet, ratio, screed, shower, shower enclosure, slab, slope, thickness, tile, tiler quotes, trowel, water, wood, wrap
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