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Posts Tagged ‘batten<’
Posted in Tiling & Flooring on Dec 14
For some peculiar reason that I don’t quite understand, bathrooms in UK homes are seldom fully tiled. Personally I think developers are being mean. How much can it cost to Find a Tiler to extend a run of wall tiles once the levels have been set?
Here’s a neat way to integrate a mirror on a painted wall with tiles elsewhere in the room.  Let your imagination loose here. The choices are endless!
- Buy the mirror and install it plumb and level with concealed mounts. Obtain sufficient wall tiles of a suitable finish and have them cut to size. If need be, you could get a Tiling Quote to have the cutting done.
- Mark out the area around the mirror where the tiles will go, and mask it off for at least the width of the tiles. Mask the frame of the mirror carefully too.
- Apply a layer of tile-keying liquid between the two runs of masking tape. Attach a batten to the wall to support the bottom run of tiles.
- Glue on the bottom run of tiles using pre-mix tile cement. Allow this to dry for twenty-four hours.
 Return the next day to complete the job, making sure the tiling spacers keep the joints between the tiles neat.
TIP A London Tiler I know well uses epoxy to secure the tiles. This may add a little to the cost, but at least he can complete the tiling on a single day, and get the money back that way.
- After waiting another day for the glue to dry properly, remove the batten and the masking tape, grout the tiles and tidy up the wall.
Little details like this can make all the difference, and add DIY pleasure to a weekend. Aren’t you glad you found a handy website like this? What’s more, you can Find Tradesmen for all larger jobs right here. And it will not cost you a single penny more!
Tags: bathroom, batten, cement, cut, dry, eopxy, extend, find a tiler, frame, key, level, london tiler, mark, mask, masking tape, mirror, mount, plumb, pre mix, quote, set, spacer, tile, tiled, tiling quote, wall, width
Posted in Tiling & Flooring | Comments Off
Posted in Carpentry & Joinery on Nov 24
While parents may still find them handy for tracking teenagers in and out at night, the truth is that a squeaking floor is an irritating thing that is literally crying out for your attention. Before you look for cost-effective Carpenters Quotes on Mr-Skill, you may like to try out these handy ideas first.
 Floor boards creak for one of three reasons, and these are some of the things you can do to fix them – possibly by yourself – once you have walked the floor and found the source:
1. They are incorrectly fitted and rubbing up against each other. Pour a little talcum powder into the crack and work it in by pressing up and down with your foot. If this works, repeat the treatment regularly.
2. The nails holding them down have worked loose. If at all possible, remove the nails completely and replace them with wood screws. If not, you may have to fit new screws separately, hammer the old nails in as best you can, and fill the nail heads with filler. Start with two screws, each towards the outer edge of the board, remembering to countersink them. Only add a middle one if necessary.
3.  The floor support is inadequate. This is a major job and you need to Find a Carpenter on Mr-Skill to do the job for you. They will remove a section of floor boards, add additional supporting battens and re-lay the floor. If done correctly by a professional there is no reason why the job will not work. Done incorrectly by a cowboy though, and it could cost you the floor.
There are Experts in London Carpentry on Mr-Skill, and specialist carpenters working in almost every other United Kingdom postcode too. When you Hire a Skilful Tradesman here, you not only get one with all the correct papers. You also get to save pounds off normal market rates.
Tags: add, batten, board, carpenters quotes, countersink, creak, fill, filler, find a carpenter, floor, floorboard, hammer, incorrect, lay, london carpentry, loose, nail, paper, powder, professional, rate, reason, relay, remove, replace, rub, save, screw, section, specialist, squeak, talcum, work
Posted in Carpentry & Joinery | Comments Off
Posted in Carpentry & Joinery on Mar 21
A touch of tongue and groove panelling that was so popular in Victorian times adds an interesting accent to any room, especially when softened with a colour wash effect. To get a professional finish you might need to <a  href=”http://www.mr-skill.co.uk/carpentry-and-joinery/”>Find a Carpenter to do the job for you, unless that is you have a feel for wood and are quite handy.
To begin with, source the panelling. If you can get planks without any knots at all then this is perfect. If not make sure the knots are tight, and fairly evenly distributed too. A mate of mine once told me that the owner of Seamless Carpenters London refuses to buy panelling at all unless he gets to choose the strips himself. Here is how to go about the job, referring to the drawing opposite:
o Attach the furring strips (otherwise known as battens) to the wall, making sure that they are right at the top and bottom and in the middle too. If the wall bends a bit adjust this with spacers so that when the job is done, the panelling will be true to the floor.
o  Mark out the positions of the panels on a fitted furring strip to determine to what extent you may need a cut piece, and decide where this will go. Cut all the pieces to length with a suitable electric saw, remembering to work outside the house to control the dust.
o Remove the tongue from one cut piece of plank using a sharp Stanley knife, file the cut smooth and sand it down evenly. Starting at one or the other of your work (left if right handed, the opposite if you are not) fit the panelling making sure it remains spirit level vertically
o Nail the first piece on to the battens through the wood using panel pins with the groove in the direction of your work, punch in the nail heads and fill the holes. After than, you just slide the tongue into the groove as you go along, securing each successive piece with nails driven through the back groove into the furring strips.
After fitting all the planks, you just have to secure the edge pieces all around, and your first tongue and groove job will be complete, bar finishing and painting. If you prefer, you could get Carpenter Quotes from Mr-Skill, although that way you might miss out on all the fun.
Tags: batten, carpenter quote, carpenters london, cut, edge, file, find a carpenter, find a joiner, finish, furring, groove, joiner london, joiner quote, knot, nail, panel, panelling, pin, plank, sand, strip, tongue, tongue & groove, tongue and groove, wainscoat, wood
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Posted in Kitchen Fitting on Feb 01
Base and wall-mounted kitchen cabinets are similar in construction, with the exception of the following three notable differences:
o Base units are finished off with separate worktops while wall mounted ones come complete with capping boards
 o Wall-mounted ones are not as deep from front-to-back as floor standing ones – this is so you don’t bump your head when you work beneath them.
o Cabinets on the wall come just with shelves, while floor-standing ones may house accessories like drawers and other modules too.
With these three exceptions, the process of assembling and mounting upper and lower cabinets, and fitting doors is similar. Many homeowners get Kitchen Fitting Quotes though, after they discover what is involved.
Assembling Carcasses
Unpack everything in open floor space, checking for damage as you go along and taking care not to damage exposed edges. Assemble according to the manufacturer’s instruction, making sure that the  carcasses are true and square. Match doors to frames and label accordingly.
Installing Carcasses
Install the upper units first. Temporarily mount a level batten along the wall where the bottoms of the wall-mounted carcasses will rest. Have an assistant rest each in position and attach it firmly to the wall. After all the carcases are mounted screw them together tightly. Remove the temporary batten. Seal right around them to keep insects away.
After aligning and leveling the floor standing units carefully, screw them to each other, push them firmly back and attach them to the wall. Fit the kick plates and seal all gaps against insects as well. Does this sound like far too much work to do when you get home from work? Why not Find a Kitchen Fitter on Mr-Skill instead?
Fitting Doors and Handles
 Attach the hinges to the doors using a template to locate them if necessary. Offer the first door up to the opening with the hinges fully open. Mark screw holes, punch out lightly and attach the hinges to the cabinet. Make rough adjustments. When all doors are installed, adjust finally again, so that the tops line up, and the shadow lines are similar. Attach the handles, using a template to make sure they align too.
Sounds easy, doesn’t it? Not actually. A Kitchen Fitter in London trains staff for an average two years before they appoint a person to head their fitting team. Perhaps you ought not to practice on your expensive new kitchen fittings either.
Tags: accessory, assemble, attach, base, batten, cabinet, capping, cascass, damage, depth, door, find a kitchen fitter, frame, handle, hinge, inspect, kitchen, kitchen fitter london, kitchen fitter quote, kitchen fitting london, kitchen fitting quotes, level, mount, screw, seal, shadow line, square, template, true, unit, wall, wall mount, worktop
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Posted in Plastering & Drywall on Jan 21
 Dry Wall gets its name from the fact that you don’t need wet cement materials to build it, which makes it ideal for internal walls that might need rearranging later. In modern buildings it is also used as an inner skin because of the way it facilitates the installation of services without the need for chopping bricks. It is capable of providing a superb final finish in the right hands too. Sounds like the perfect solution, doesn’t it? If you need a Plastering Quote for Dry Wall work contact Mr-Skill
Dry Walling is not quite perfect though. The sheets are fitted over a wooden framework in the same way ceilings are made. That means a lot of air space behind a brittle surface. If your teenager comes home awash with hormones and kicks a hole in it, how do you effect a repair when the filler just  keeps disappearing into the space behind the panel? Or, on a lighter note, how do you fill a space where a light switch once was that you just moved? You may not need to find a plasterer. That’s because a small repair is actually dead simple when you follow these 3 easy steps.
1) Trace a rectangle on the wall around the damaged area. Cut carefully though the outer surface using a sharp knife before cutting through with a keyhole saw. Use the down stroke only to avoid disturbing the surrounding material.
2) Attach one or more battens inside the opening with glue and screws and allow to fully dry. Then glue a  neatly fitting patch onto the batten with glue like no more nails.
3) The next day (no sooner please) cover the patch and immediate surrounding area with a suitable filler and, when dry, finish off with light grit paper on an orbital sander. Paint, stand back and feel good about what you just achieved.
We do not recommend that you try a large repair yourself. This is because a bad patch can mar a home and even bring the value down. Play it safe. Find a Dry Wall expert on Mr Skill and get Plastering Quotes from them.
Tags: batten, ceiling, cut, dry wall, dry walling, drywall, fill, filler, find a plasterer, fix, frame, glue, hole, internal, paint, partition, patch, plasterer london, plasterer quote, plastering job London, plastering quote, remove, repair, sand, screw, space, wall, wood
Posted in Plastering & Drywall | Comments Off
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