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Posts Tagged ‘cement<’
In its simplest form a tiled roof is a dead-simple thing. You just need to make sure the ridge is intact, and the barge boards are in position. Problems can set in when architects add valleys, hips and chimneys. The situation’s even more complex when there’s a party wall involved. The intelligent homeowner will find a roofer to assess the situation every year.
Generally speaking this assessment process includes:
- Ridges – The ridge tiles cemented on top of the peak and side ridges work loose as the roof timbers settle under the weight. They perform the essential dual role of securing runs of tiles and waterproofing primary roof joints. Every London roofer knows there’s only one way to fix the problem properly, and that’s to lift off and re-cement the entire run.
- Valleys – These are sealed off to avoid problems for the life-cycle of a roof, and should remain trouble-free although the tiles along them may move out of alignment and require re-positioning. When up on a roof it’s always a good idea to apply a fresh coat of waterproofing to the lining.
- Chimney – If you have the slightest doubt that the flashing’s come away it’s essential to get a roofing quote and have it replaced right away. That’s because rainwater builds up against the upper side of the chimney, and if it finds a way through it will drip through the ceiling.
- Tiles – While these should last a lifetime too, they are brittle
 and snap easily underfoot (another excellent reason why not to trust your roof to an amateur). Ask your roofer to cast an eye around when they’re up there and advise you accordingly with a recommendation
Although Barge Boards should be firmly attached to roof timbers, they have been known to work loose during windstorms, and can endanger life and limb should they come crashing down. This is why Mr-Skill recommends an annual roof inspection, so you can sleep peacefully underneath and have absolutely no concerns. And that’s exactly what should happen when you find a tradesperson through us.
Tags: annual, barge, brittle, ceiling, cement, chimney, complex, drip, fascia, find a roofer, flashing, hip, inspect, joint, leak, line, london roofer, party wall, peak, ridge, roof, roofing quote, side, snap, tile, valley, waterproof
Posted in Roofing, Gutters & Drainage | Comments Off
Posted in Tiling & Flooring on Jun 01
Tiling over an existing cement floor for the first time needs careful preparation, if you want the finished job to appear perfectly smooth. You will have to ensure that the sub-floor is level, while filling all holes and imperfections too. This is because untreated holes have a habit of expanding, and you don’t want this happening under your newly tiled floor!
What You’ll Need for this Moderately Difficult Job
In this article, we are assuming that you know your way around tiling, having tiled before. If this is not the case, rather find a tiling and flooring specialist here on Mr-Skill. As with all DIY work, always think safety first: 
- Goggles, cold chisel, hammer, vacuum cleaner, paintbrush, bonding liquid, tile cement, trowel and plaster float.
- A good pair of plastic gloves to protect your hands.
If you have any doubt about your ability to do the work, this would be a good time to get a tiling and flooring quote right here.
The Preparation Process
Level the cement floor using the hammer and chisel, making sure to clean out any holes and other imperfections. Don’t forget the goggles to avoid flying cement chips. Remember, your tile cement won’t adhere to feathered and uneven surfaces.
Be sure to rim out holes to get a good bonding surface, and then vacuum the entire floor to remove all dust and debris. Wipe the surface with a clean damp cloth to ensure that it is dirt-free.
Apply the bonding liquid to the clean cement floor, making sure it penetrates the holes too. Now, mix the required amount of cement according to the maker’s instructions, and apply it in the holes and hollows. 
Be sure to spread the cement over all patching areas – as well as into corners and ridges – as you apply it across the floor working from the furthest corner. The end result should be a perfectly flat tiling area with no holes or other imperfections.
As you go along, use the trowel and float to smooth and evenly spread the wet cement, not forgetting corners and ridges.
Finally, a tip from one of our London tilers and floorers – he says that you must wait a decent period for the surface to dry and bond properly before laying tiles. Depending on the weather conditions, allow at least four days.
Tags: bonding liquid, cement, corners, drying time, find a tiling-and-flooring specialist, holes, london-tiler-and-floorer, preparing, protective gear, ridges, screed, screeding, smooth, smoothing, sub floor, tiling, tiling experience, tiling-and-flooring quote, tools, wet
Posted in Tiling & Flooring | Comments Off
Posted in Bricklaying on Feb 13
Before you rush off and Find a Bricklayer on Mr-Skill to lay your brick paving, you first need to understand the theory of brick bonds. That’s because they are butted up against each other as opposed to being cemented. In a very real sense, we are talking about unity in strength here. If one comes loose others will soon follow.
 Jack-on-Jack works well provided your pavers are identically-sized and your bricklayer has a straight eye too. They are bad news in a long narrow run where every defect shows.
Running Bond is a bit more robust because the joints are overlapped. This can help prevent the rows from staggering. It is however a very common pattern that often fails to excite.
 Basket Weave is a further enhancement because the joints are contra-staggered adding further strength. The bricks actually form sets of squares that can look extremely pleasant.
Half Basket Weave is a variation of the previous bond that gets away from squares to create a pattern that seems almost random. Note though that patches of Jack-on-Jack recur from time to time.
 Herringbone is in many ways the perfect solution. The joints all overlap and the pattern is not noticeable unless you look for it. This is a strong bond, particularly when the pavers are correctly but-jointed.
Diagonal Herringbone is an interesting variation on the theme that helps soften rectangular spaces. Just make sure the triangular filler-pieces are sized to that everything fits in well together.
Some London Bricklayers employ specialist staff that only lay one kind of pattern. Check this out with them before you ask them to submit a Bricklaying Quote. Otherwise you could come home to find the pattern laid that you least wanted.
Tags: basket weave, bond, brick, bricklaying quote, but, cement, diagonal, filler, find a bricklayer, half basket, herringbone, jack, jack on jack, london bricklayer, overlap, pattern, paver, paving, running, running bond, size, square, stagger, straight
Posted in Bricklaying | Comments Off
Posted in Plastering & Drywall on Feb 01
Damp is an on-going problem in many homes in Britain, and that’s not just in the older ones either. Water, especially when forced by wind can find its way inside an outside wall through the tiniest of cracks. After the leak is fixed, it’s time to Find a Plasterer to fix the evidence that alerted us to the damp in the first place.
The Problem
The water has leached the cement away leaving weakened plaster that will eventually come off. The only solution is to hack it out and replace it. You have a choice, though. You could Ask Mr-Skill to Arrange a Plaster Quote, or you could have a go at it yourself.
 Repair Stage One
You have to get rid of the damaged plaster at least a foot above any visible damage or residual salts. If the damp was low down, then you must in any case remove the plaster to three feet above floor level. Brush away every grain of loose material. Complete the job with a vacuum cleaner – you may wish to do this when the wife is out shopping.
Repair Stage Two
This is a tip a London Plasterer taught me years ago. Put on a pair of disposable latex gloves. Make a slurry of cement powder and water with a cup of bonding liquid added – the final consistency should be like runny porridge. Brush this firmly over the space where the old plaster came out. This will allow the new plaster to adhere properly. Wash your hands and tools immediately. Allow the slurry to dry for a day.
Repair Stage Three
Make up a stiff plaster mix of 3-Parts sand to 1-Part cement. Apply this with a wide paint scraper or steel float across the entire surface roughly, and leave it alone for two hours to set. Apply a fresh mix of plaster that stands just proud of the surface. Work this off with a straight edge later the same day.  Leave the job to cure for a week.
Repair Stage Four
Apply a moist mix of Polyfilla over the entire surface. When it’s totally dry and the surface has gone a little powdery, finish the job off with an a sanding block or orbital sander, using medium-grit paper. After that, you are ready to decorate!
That’s all very well in theory, but do you really have the time to spend on this? If not, that’s where Mr-Skill comes in. We provide a matching service between customers and tradespeople. Unlike some others, we don’t add a penny to the cost of jobs.
Tags: adhere, bond, brush, cement, clean, consistency, crack, cure, damage, damp, dry, dust, exterior, find a plasterer, float, get rid of, glove, grit, hack, london plasterer, mix, orbital, outside, paint scraper, plaster, plaster quote, polyfilla, powder, remove, replace, salt, sand, scraper, set, slurry, stick, straight edge, tip, wall, water
Posted in Plastering & Drywall | Comments Off
Posted in Tiling & Flooring on Jan 16
This one’s dead easy, although many people still don’t know the secret of how to do it properly. They end up balancing floor mosaics on a base of tile cement that thinks that it’s a bed of quicksand. You’ll might still Find a Tiler battling this way elsewhere too, although I should think not one from Mr-Skill.
 Lay the shower drain in place two tile thicknesses above the floor, and then construct the shower base around it using a single row of bricks laid flat. Think about the shower enclosure as you do. Your goal is to be able to position it symmetrically.
- Determine the fall you need. The simplest way is to measure up an existing shower, although I’ve always allowed a half-inch drop myself. Obtain a length of wood the thickness of the fall, by say one inch wide.
- Wrap the shower drain tightly in a piece of plastic sheet to prevent it from getting blocked. Lay pieces of the wood down flat around the inside of the shower base to create a frame. If this sounds too complicated, you could always Ask Mr-Skill to Arrange Tiling Quotes instead
- Obtain a supply of flooring screed. Combine this with cement in ratio of two-parts screed to one-part cement. Add water to create a moist but not runny mixture. Add a cup of bonding liquid too if you have some,
 so the mix will adhere really tightly to the base below and the tiles above.
- Wait fifteen minutes to allow the mixture to stiffen. Do not add more water. Trowel about half the screed you think you need into the shower base and smooth it out using a steel float and a flat piece of wood. Add more screed as needed
- Your goal is to slope the screed evenly between the strips of wood inside the shower base, and the floor slab two inches outside of the drain. Don’t panic if it isn’t perfect. You’ll be laying tiles over it after all.
- Three hours later, fidget out the strips of wood inside the shower base and fill in the gaps they leave behind with more screed. A week later, you could begin to tile!
This one of many tips I learned from London Tilers a thousand years ago when I was completing my apprenticeship. Some things never change, do they? Another consistent thing is the quality of service you’ll get from Mr-Skill.
Tags: adhere, base, bonding liquid, brick, cement, drain, drop, easy, enclosure, fall, find a tiler, float, floor, frame, gap, gradient, london tilers, mix, mixture, plastic sheet, ratio, screed, shower, shower enclosure, slab, slope, thickness, tile, tiler quotes, trowel, water, wood, wrap
Posted in Tiling & Flooring | Comments Off
Posted in Bricklaying on Jan 09
Sometimes we come across customers trying to crack walnuts with large sledgehammers. By this, we mean people trying to turn a rowing boat into an ocean liner. Take simple brick paving jobs, for example. If it’s not a heavy traffic area you could even do the job yourself, thereby avoiding the  need for a London Bricklayer or other specialist.
- Obtain a supply of decent quality bricks. By this we mean a product that’s well baked through, reasonably rectangular, and of a pleasing appearance too. Don’t be put off if the colour varies though. In fact, variety can be a large part of the charm.
- Mark out the path or patio and excavate to twice the thickness of the bricks laid flat. Remove any roots you find. Lay a plastic sheet in the hole to discourage weeds. Mix dry cement powder with two-thirds of the soil dug out, in proportions of four parts earth to one part cement. DO NOT MOISTEN this mixture. Mother Nature will do it for you.
- Compact this mixture back into the hole until it is level, and one brick’s height below the ground. Sprinkle fine dry sand evenly over it to about half an inch thick. Lay the bricks in whatever pattern
 you prefer, tapping these down firmly with a rubber mallet, and adding / removing sand as necessary to create a level effect.
- Fill any gaps with brick pieces. Use a hammer and chisel NOT AN ANGLE GRINDER to cut these down to size, and remember to wear thick gloves. Finally, excavate a frame all around the paved area the width of a single brick. Mix all the remaining earth with dry cement powder – in a ratio of three parts to one this time – and tamp it back in. The mixture will harden naturally over time. Cut away any surplus plastic sheet.
How that for service from Mr-Skill? There’s no need to ask us for Bricklaying Quotes if you’d like to do a job like this yourself. Should you decide that you’ve got better things to do though, we can help you Find a Bricklayer working in your area, and We Won’t Charge you a Penny for this service either.
Tags: brick, bricklaying quotes, cement, chisel, colour, compact, depth, earth, find a bricklayer, ground, hammer, harden, height, job, london bricklayer, mallett, naturally, path, patio, paving, piece, plastic, proportion, root, sand, sheet, soil, tamp, thick, traffic, weed
Posted in Bricklaying | Comments Off
Posted in Bricklaying on Dec 20
Brick steps are lovely to behold, but they do tend to get a little grimy over time, as dirt collects and moss develops. I popped over to the local brickfield the other day, and picked up some tips I’ll gladly share with you here.  This is definitely not a job to take lightly though. In fact I’m inclined to suggest you Find a Bricklayer to do the job for you instead
- Remove any obvious blobs of cement or anything else using a metal or hard-wood scraper. The same goes for any paint runs too.
- Obtain a supply of hydrochloric acid from a hardware store. Dilute 1-part of acid to 20-parts of water for light-coloured bricks, and twice the strength for darker ones. Do not make the mixture any stronger, or you could harm your health!
- Protect yourself and the adjacent areas from splashing, and saturate the area where you will be working with clean water. Minimum safety requirements are rubber gloves and safety glasses.
 Apply the hydrochloric acid dilution to a small area highest up the wall. Wait for between 3 and 6 minutes, and then scrub it down thoroughly. Work in small batches of no more than one square meter at a time, and rinse thoroughly as you go along.
- HINT For best results, London Bricklayers recommend rinsing light-coloured bricks with a bicarbonate or washing soda solution instead.
A messy job indeed, and one I’m not sure I’d care to tackle myself. In fact I can think of a dozen things I’d prefer to do. I reckon that’s where Mr-Skill comes in. You can get a Bricklayer Quote to do the job for you, just by clicking on the link. And there’s no charge at all for this superb quoting service either!
Tags: apply, bicarbonate, brick, bricklayer quote, cement, colour, dark, dilute, dirt, find a bricklayer, glasses, glove, goggles, grimy, hint, hydrochloric acid, light, london bricklayers, moss, paint, part, remove, rinse, safety, saturate, scrape, scrub, splash, step, tip, washing soda, water
Posted in Bricklaying | Comments Off
Posted in Tiling & Flooring on Dec 14
For some peculiar reason that I don’t quite understand, bathrooms in UK homes are seldom fully tiled. Personally I think developers are being mean. How much can it cost to Find a Tiler to extend a run of wall tiles once the levels have been set?
Here’s a neat way to integrate a mirror on a painted wall with tiles elsewhere in the room.  Let your imagination loose here. The choices are endless!
- Buy the mirror and install it plumb and level with concealed mounts. Obtain sufficient wall tiles of a suitable finish and have them cut to size. If need be, you could get a Tiling Quote to have the cutting done.
- Mark out the area around the mirror where the tiles will go, and mask it off for at least the width of the tiles. Mask the frame of the mirror carefully too.
- Apply a layer of tile-keying liquid between the two runs of masking tape. Attach a batten to the wall to support the bottom run of tiles.
- Glue on the bottom run of tiles using pre-mix tile cement. Allow this to dry for twenty-four hours.
 Return the next day to complete the job, making sure the tiling spacers keep the joints between the tiles neat.
TIP A London Tiler I know well uses epoxy to secure the tiles. This may add a little to the cost, but at least he can complete the tiling on a single day, and get the money back that way.
- After waiting another day for the glue to dry properly, remove the batten and the masking tape, grout the tiles and tidy up the wall.
Little details like this can make all the difference, and add DIY pleasure to a weekend. Aren’t you glad you found a handy website like this? What’s more, you can Find Tradesmen for all larger jobs right here. And it will not cost you a single penny more!
Tags: bathroom, batten, cement, cut, dry, eopxy, extend, find a tiler, frame, key, level, london tiler, mark, mask, masking tape, mirror, mount, plumb, pre mix, quote, set, spacer, tile, tiled, tiling quote, wall, width
Posted in Tiling & Flooring | Comments Off
Posted in Tiling & Flooring on Nov 17
If you’ve got tiled floors, tiled splash backs and tiled walls in your home (and we all have these in abundance these days) then the chances are that the grout is looking grotty, unless, that is, you’ve kept your hand to it. Why is this? It’s simple really. As every London Tiler knows, grout is a cement product and cement absorbs grease and grime.
In the bathroom, the dirt is usually mould from steam, soap accumulation and what’s best described as body residues.  Wipe wet walls and glass doors regularly and things will stay under control. Ignore this advice, and in a month or two your bathroom will start looking yucky, and it’s time for elbow grease and chemicals.
You’ll find mildew in the kitchen too, and food spills trafficked by feet across the floor. Some ingredients such as saffron and tomato sauce have amazing staining properties as well as legendary tastes, and you should wipe them right away. If you don’t, suddenly you’ll notice that cute has left your kitchen, and that it’s time to start cleaning up again.
• If things are not all that bad yet, you can try cleaning off the grout with either vinegar, baking soda or sugar soap. A steam cleaner can also help blast the dirt away but watch out for the mess. Never use ammonia-based cleaners on white grout, because they turn it yellow over time.
•  Didn’t work? Then try commercial cleaners like Mr Clean or Lysol, making sure you wash them away completely. Be careful of using corrosive products that can make your hands tingle – especially if your waste water ends up in a soak away.
• Still got problems? Then I’m afraid you need to Find a Tiler to rake out the offending grout and replace it with a matching one. Be careful of trying this yourself though – it’s not difficult to chip an exposed tile edge and you may not have a spare.
We have a comprehensive database of Tilers on Mr-Skill serving every UK postcode, and we can arrange several Tilers’ Quotes for you in just a few hours. Their rates will be better than competitive, and we don’t charge customers for our service. Moreover, our other customers have already rated them for quality.
Tags: absorb, baking soda, body, cement, chemicals, chip, clean, corrosive, find a tiler, floor, food, grout, london tiling company, match, mildew, rake, replace, residue, soak, soap, spill, splash, steam, sugar soap, tile, tilers quotes, track, vinegar, wall, wipe
Posted in Tiling & Flooring | Comments Off
Posted in Bricklaying on Sep 07
Sometimes finishing off the joints between bricks can seem like a never-ending chore, unless you have years of experience as some Bricklayers in London may. This is because bricks are naturally made products, and have all sorts of holes and cracks where plaster may collect. If you are contemplating a DIY job such as building a smaller set of steps, then you can try to bridge your experience gap with tips like these.
•  Buy a decent set of tools. I cannot over-emphasise the difference that a shiny new float or builder’s trowel can make, and these are inexpensive too. So throw away your rusty set and make a fresh start on your next job.
• Decide on the type of joint you want. There are a variety of different strokes for different folks, and the right solution is usually the one that you prefer the most. Some people like full grouted joints requiring fewer tools, while others want recessed, hand-tooled ones that take a little extra time. Remember to specify what joints you may require when calling for Bricklaying Quotes on Mr-Skill, as this may affect the price.
• Don’t be shy with masking tape. This may be frowned on by professionals, but can be a dab trick for weekend builders such as you and me. Time and effort spent improving techniques this way, can produce really professional looking jobs that you can be proud of too.
•  Use a grout bag or grout gun. Believe me; these make the difference between pain and pleasure. This is because they are not only quick to use, but they also make a whole lot less mess. And yes, you could even save a little plaster, although this is often more in the salesperson’s mind.
• Use a jointer’s tool to create recessed grout lines. This is essential equipment for scooping out surplus grout material, and I doubt you will Find a Bricklayer anywhere who does not have at least one in their kit. The trick is to add a little more material when required, as opposed to applying too much in the first place.
Not an awfully difficult job to do, although grouting bricks can be fiddly and frustrating. Attempt the job yourself by all means if you have lots of patience and spare time. Otherwise, why not Find a Skilled and Rated Tradesman on Mr-Skill instead, to take the hassles (and the cement) off your busy hands.
Tags: add, brick, bricklayers in london, bricklaying quotes, cement, clean, crack, DIY, experience, find a bricklayer, finish, float, flush, full, grout, hint, hole, joint, line, mask, masking tape, mess, natural, new, plaster, professional, recess, render, rust, save, scoop, shiny, skill, specify, step, technique, tip, tool, trowel
Posted in Bricklaying | Comments Off
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