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Posts Tagged ‘floorboards<’
As with any DIY job, correct preparation is the key to getting a project done efficiently with the final effect exactly how you planned it. With painting or staining a floor, correct preparation is even more important, as floors have a lot more use made of them than walls or ceilings and getting a sound, solid finish the first time will save on re-touching in the future.
If you have any creaking or squeaking floorboards in the room you are going to decorate, now might be the time to fix them. If you require any assistance from a local carpenter in London, you can “Post-a-Job” and ask for a free carpenters quote or follow our “Project Advice” on how to repair creaking and squeaking floorboards.
If you are painting or staining a floor which has existing paint or varnish on it, you are going to have to sand it right back to the bare boards. This is best done with an electric sander, but make sure that you are wearing goggles and a dust mask before you start, and that the room is well ventilated. Corners and areas near skirting boards can be done with a mini-sanding attachment on a power drill or by hand with sandpaper – although using the latter method can be backbreaking!
Once you have sanded the floor, Hoover the room thoroughly and use white spirit to wipe clean the floorboards. If you are looking to enhance the grain features in the wood, gently stroke each board with a wire brush following the direction of the grain. Then, depending on your preferred finish, start painting or staining from the furthest corner of the room from the door
Wood Stain
Wood stain is available as water-based or solvent-based product in a wide range of colours. It provides a lighter finish than varnish and the solvent-based wood stain also has strong protective qualities. To apply wood stain, seal your freshly stripped (or newly laid) floorboards with a clear Polyurethane varnish and allow to dry. Then apply up to three coats of wood stain depending on the depth of colour and level of protection that you want. Tip: Water-based wood stain, although not offering as much protection as the solvent-based equivalent, dries much faster.
Paint
If you are painting your floor, you may not need to go through the procedure of sanding it down beforehand depending on the colour you are painting over. Making sure that it is free from dust however is important if you want to obtain a perfect finish. Painting bare floorboards with a satinwood paint can leave a really nice finish or standard emulsion will suffice in all but the heaviest areas of foot traffic. Whichever finish you choose, once the paint is dry protect it with a coat or two of clear varnish.
Varnish
Like wood stain, varnish is also available in either water-based or solvent-based formulas. Solvent-based offers the best results in many cases but can be unpleasant to apply due to the strong smell. Although varnishing your floorboards will produce a stunning finish, you need to consider than after a few years of wear and tear varnish inevitably begins to crack or shrink, and this may mean performing the whole task once again!
If there are any areas of this specific project which you are unsure about, or you like the idea of having a freshly painted or stained wooden floor but are not confident of doing the job yourself, you can contact a selection of local decorators in London by using the “Post-a-Job” facility at the top of this page.
Tags: Decorating & Interior Design, emulsion, find a carpenter in London, find a handyman in London, find a painter in london, floorboards, floors, interior decoration, Painting, sanding, satinwood, staining, varnish, wood stain Posted in Painting & Decorating | Comments Off
High quality wooden flooring has a depth of beauty that adds style and charm to a home. Both robust and natural, a well varnished and polished wooden floor adds a touch of class to your home while combining both modern and traditional themes.
Although there are ways in which painting a wooden floor can still make it look outstanding, there is something special about entering a room and seeing sunlight reflect from a cherry wood floor, although less formal woods such as birch, oak and maple can be equally impressive.
Lighter woods are best used in bedrooms, kitchen areas and guest bathrooms where they complement existing decor, with darker veneers more suitable to lounges and dining areas. Where the rooms all meet in the passageway, a medallion of styles creates a smooth transition from light wood to dark.
Wooden flooring can last a lifetime if maintained carefully, however possibly best avoided in the main bathroom, where continued humidity may cause the floorboards to expand and where a surface that can be slippery when wet is probably not in your best interests.
It is possible to lay a wooden floor yourself, or transform an existing wooden floor by painting or staining, however these can be difficult jobs with the potential to go expensively wrong, and for the best possible solution to updating the look of your floors, you should speak about your ideas to one of the London interior designers featured in our Tradesmen´s Directory.
Tags: birch, cherry, decor, find a carpenter in London, find an interior designer in London, floor, floorboards, Home Improvements, interior decoration, maple, oak, wood, wood stain Posted in Painting & Decorating | Comments Off
Posted in Carpentry & Joinery on Aug 11
Putting a new wooden floor into a room can transform a tired appearance into a brand new look. Solid timber floors are attractive, hard wearing and modern – matching almost any style of home. Whereas wooden flooring boards used to be plain-edged planks of wood that were nailed into joists, nowadays packs are available from DIY stores with boards that are tongued and grooved, and interlock – preventing draughts and dust entering from beneath. If laying the floor on top of an existing concrete floor, you will also need to buy a sufficient quantity of underlay with a built-in vapour barrier. This will prevent any moisture seeping through the concrete damaging your new floor.
Laying a wooden floor is an advanced DIY project for which you may need the assistance of a London handyman. Not only will you get the job done in half the time, but a second pair of hands will save you moving heavy packets of timber around on your own. To prepare for the job, it is a good idea to open the timber packs and leave them in the room for 24 hours before you intend to start to enable them to adapt to the change in humidity. You should also remove any doors which open into the room and the skirting surrounding the room. Tip: When removing the skirting, place a wooden block behind the crowbar so that the leverage is not against a plaster wall.
Before you start laying the wooden floor, thoroughly vacuum the floor and fit the underlay first. Underlay normally comes in 15 metre rolls, so you can just roll it out and use a Stanley knife to trim it to the right size. Each section of the underlay should be securely taped to the next one to ensure the integrity of the vapour barrier, and secured into the floor at the point where the skirting when replaced will form a seal. Boards normally look best laid in the same direction as the longest straight wall, however some people prefer to lay the boards in the direction of incoming daylight.
The first step is to place 10-15mm plastic spacers around the entire edge of the wall. These will create an expansion gap which will allow the wood to breathe as the humidity in the room changes. Then lay the first row of boards along the longest straight wall, with the groove facing the wall and starting from a corner. Check the manufacturer´s instructions for fixing the boards as the ends may also be tongued or grooved. Cut the last board at a perfect right angle, ensuring that it is sufficiently short to allow for the expansion gap at the end.
Depending on the length of the cut-off from the last board of the first row, you may want to use this to start off the second row. Normally end joints are staggered by at least 30cm, but again, the decision is yours based on what you would like the final effect to look like. The pack of timbers usually includes a fitting tool which you can use to push the sides of each board together, and you can work your way across the room, tightening each joint by tapping the edge block against the grooved side of each board with a hammer.
If you have a radiator pipe to negotiate, mark the position of the pipe on the board that will be laid there. Drill a hole in the board around 5mm wider in diameter that the pipe itself, and make two opposite angled saw cuts from the edge of the board to the sides of the hole. Then fit the board and carefully glue the small triangle of wood you should have left over back into place behind the pipe.
Should the last row of boards not be a perfect fit, measure the remaining gap between the last row of boards and the wall. Deduct 10mm (for the expansion gap) and saw the boards horizontally to fit. Don´t panic if the cut is not always perfectly straight. The edge closest to the wall will be hidden by the skirting boards when you replace them.
Replacing the skirting boards and re-hanging any doors are indeed your final jobs before you start moving all the furniture back in and start enjoying your new floor. There are many different paints, stains and varnishes that can be applied to your floor to protect it and vary the effect – but right now, you have done enough for one day! Relax and take pride in your work – We´ll leave painting and varnishing until another day!
As mentioned in our Inspirations feature, this is a job that can be done professionally by local carpenters in London, or with assistance from a local handyman. Although there is a certain satisfaction in finishing a project such as this by yourself, if you need help on any part of this job, use the “Post-a-Job” facility at the top of the page, or speak with one of the London tradesmen featured in our Tradesmen´s Directory.
Tags: Carpentry & Joinery, Central Heating, floorboards, floors, Home Improvements, interior decoration, joists, Painting & Decorating, skirting boards, Tradesmen´s Directory, underlay, wooden floor Posted in Carpentry & Joinery | Comments Off
Posted in Carpentry & Joinery on Aug 11
Creaking and squeaking floorboards are not a problem confined to older buildings but can happen in modern homes as well. Carpenters in London working on newer properties will have tended to construct floors using larger sheets of chipboard rather than floorboards, and both systems of flooring can work loose over a period of time – particularly when they have been lifted and replaced for services such as central heating or electrical cabling.
Temporary fixes, such as putting talcum powder between the joints in the floor may make the problem go away for a while, but a permanent solution is always the best option. If you have creaking and squeaking floorboards in your house, it could be related to a number of problems, and it might be worth having a look to see if you can fix the problem yourself, before turning to the services of a London carpenter.
If the creaking has not been going on for very long, it may be because one or two of the nails in the flooring have come loose and are rubbing against the wood, or allowing the wood to rub against the adjacent board. If the heads of the nails are slightly raised above the level of the wood, it is a simple job to hammer them back into place although, for a more secure solution, it might be better to replace these with screws of the same size. Screws any longer than the nails you have removed may puncture a pipe or damage an electric cable – at best a mop and repair job, at worst a possible fatality!
In cases where the floor joists have settled – creating a gap between the top of the joist and the floorboard or chipboard – the nail may now not be long enough to securely bind the floorboard to the joist. You will have to remove the existing nail and checking carefully to ensure that there are no pipes or cables beneath the floorboard, insert a longer screw into the existing hole. When checking for pipes and cables, you may need the assistance of a local handyman in London to help you lift large areas of chipboard and replace them securely.
If removing nails and replacing them with screws does not solve the problem, you may be looking at more serious issues. Where plasterboard walls have been constructed on an existing floor, the bottom of the wall should be secured to the floor into a joist or purpose made “noggin”. If the soleplate of the wall has been simply nailed into a floorboard which has subsequently worn loose, this could also be the cause of the squeaking. This issue would be evident by gaps appearing between the underside of the skirting and the floor, and can be remedied by inserting a narrow wedge into the gap rather than having a London carpenter rip up half your floor and construct noggins beneath the wall.
The most difficult job to fix is when the reason for the creaking floor is that the joists are simply not strong enough to handle the weight of the floor, or are undersized and not properly supported. This will involve having a local carpenter lay new joists or strengthen the existing ones and is a major job that it is important to have done as soon as it is noticed.
Fixing creaking floors may often require the professional services of a carpenter in London, and thanks to Mr Skill´s Tradesmen´s Directory, there are plenty in your local area from which to choose. To obtain a selection of carpenting quotes, please use the “Post-a-Job” facility at the top of the page, and our selection of carpenters in London will be happy to provide details of the services they can offer to help repair creaking and squeaking floorboards.
Tags: carpenter, carpenters in London, Central Heating, chipboard, electrical cabling, floorboards, joists, skirting boards, timber Posted in Carpentry & Joinery | Comments Off
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