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Posts Tagged ‘holes<’

Fitting a New Bathroom Cabinet RSS

Posted in Handyman Services on Sep 24

There are several different models and designs when it comes to bathroom cabinets, so if you are tired of your old one, you’ll have plenty to choose from. Mr-Skill stresses the fact that bathrooms and kitchens tend to sell properties, so any enhancements you make can only improve the outlook. In this article, we deal with mounting a handsome double-mirrored cabinet above your hand basin, and it will look very elegant too. 

What You’ll Need: Find a bathroom fitter on Mr-Skill

  • The cabinet – most come as knockdown kits
  • Tape measure
  • Pencil for marking
  • Paper template
  • Screws, plugs and screwdriver
  • Drill and bit
  • Spirit level 

Better to play safe than sorry, so if you don’t have the skills or confidence for this job, rather get a bathroom fitting quote. You can find a bathroom fitter right here on Mr-Skill, just remember to ask for the best price. 

Decide on Position  Find a bathroom fitter on Mr-Skill

Having assembled your purchase using the manufacturers instruction, decide where you want the cabinet. In the case of our mirrored-door cabinet, centring it neatly above the bathroom hand basin is a good position. Make up a template of the back of the cupboard, and use this for precise positioning and marking. Check the tiled surface onto which you will be screwing the new cabinet – ideally, you should anchor the cupboard with four screws, one close to each corner. Be careful not to drill anywhere near water pipes, and preferably align your screw holes to the grout line. 

Mock it up 

One of our regular London bathroom fitters advises that it is always best for two people to hold the cabinet in its final position before drilling the holes. Get the family to agree with the location, and the height needs to be such that you can see your reflection without bending or stretching your neck. 

Up She Goes! 

Once you have marked your holes on the back of the cupboard, drill through the back section using a carpentry bit. Offer up the cabinet to its final position on the wall and use the pencil to mark the holes on the wall, via the holes already made on the back of the cupboard. Make a final check for correct alignment using your spirit level. Use the right masonry bit for drilling your wall holes to the correct depth, then place the plastic plugs in the holes. Ask someone to help hold the cabinet while you locate the four screws through the cupboard backing. Mr-Skill says that if you have reached this point without any incidents, you can chant these words: Mirror, mirror on the wall.

Tags: align, batroom fitting quote, cabinets, Carpentry, cupboard, find a bathroom fitter, fitting, hand basin, height, holes, location, london bathroom fitter, masonry, pencil, plugs, screwdriver, screws, skills, tape measure, template
Posted in Handyman Services | Comments Off

 

Trellis – Simple to Install and Private Too RSS

Posted in Handyman Services on Jul 04

Trellis is the word we use to describe a latticework of crossing panels made from treated wood. Not only does it make for a visually pleasing experience, it also offers better privacy too. Solid pole-fences or brick garden walls are not as aesthetic and will cost a lot more too, especially when you add the price of labour. Trellis is available in standard panel sizes and many wood finishes too.Find handyman services on Mr-Skill 

One of our regular London handymen says that if you’re not the DIY type, Mr-Skill is the best place to start your search for a skilled tradesperson. He goes on to advise that you need to visualise what you are trying to achieve, before erecting this type of fencing. 

The Raw Materials 

Typically, wood lattice panels are stock items, and come in 2 x 4 foot, 2 x 8 foot and 4 x 8 foot sections. The standard panel thickness starts at 3/8 inch, then 3/4 inch, and thicker. Common patterns include square, diamond and weave finishes with both large and smaller viewing gaps. Don’t forget the poles that you’ll need to plant for support. If you prefer, find a handyman here on Mr-Skill and leave the rest to him. 

Steps: 

  • Use builder’s string and stakes to lay out your fence line. Then, you can mark your post positions along this line, allowing for a maximum gap of 8 feet between your poles. Now, dig a hole deep enough to bury the pole footing – not too shallow or the fence may bend. Plant the pole and check it is standing straight. Fill the hole around the post with concrete, being sure to keep the upright plumb. Allow the poles time to settle, and the concrete to set.
  • Check that the post height above the ground does not exceed 6 feet, the normal height permitted by your local authority. Use the string to line up the poles and trim off any excess height.Find handyman services on Mr-Skill
  • Trim top and bottom battens to fit horizontally between the poles, and secure them as supports for the lattice panels.
  • Place the lattice panels in position with the right face showing, and centre between the uprights. You are now ready to secure the trellis fence to the framework, filling any left and right gaps with panels trimmed to the correct size.

If you haven’t erected a fence yourself like this before, it’s time to pat yourself on the back if you got this far. If this sounds all too difficult then check the Mr-Skill home page and get some handymen quotes instead. Then, switch on the telly and take in Match of the Day while you wait for the professionals to complete your stunning new fence.

Tags: aesthetic, concrete, fence, fencing, find handyman-services, Garden, garden walls, holes, horizontal, london handyman services, panels, poles, privacy, quote for handyman services, spacing, stake, string, trellis, trim, uprights
Posted in Handyman Services | Comments Off

 

Preparing Your Cement Floor for Tiling RSS

Posted in Tiling & Flooring on Jun 01

Tiling over an existing cement floor for the first time needs careful preparation, if you want the finished job to appear perfectly smooth. You will have to ensure that the sub-floor is level, while filling all holes and imperfections too. This is because untreated holes have a habit of expanding, and you don’t want this happening under your newly tiled floor! 

What You’ll Need for this Moderately Difficult Job 

In this article, we are assuming that you know your way around tiling, having tiled before. If this is not the case, rather find a tiling and flooring specialist here on Mr-Skill. As with all DIY work, always think safety first: Find a tiling-and-floor expert on Mr-Skill

  • Goggles, cold chisel, hammer, vacuum cleaner, paintbrush, bonding liquid, tile cement, trowel and plaster float.
  • A good pair of plastic gloves to protect your hands. 

If you have any doubt about your ability to do the work, this would be a good time to get a tiling and flooring quote right here. 

The Preparation Process 

Level the cement floor using the hammer and chisel, making sure to clean out any holes and other imperfections. Don’t forget the goggles to avoid flying cement chips. Remember, your tile cement won’t adhere to feathered and uneven surfaces. 

Be sure to rim out holes to get a good bonding surface, and then vacuum the entire floor to remove all dust and debris. Wipe the surface with a clean damp cloth to ensure that it is dirt-free. 

Apply the bonding liquid to the clean cement floor, making sure it penetrates the holes too. Now, mix the required amount of cement according to the maker’s instructions, and apply it in the holes and hollows. Find a tiling-and-flooring expert on Mr-Skill

Be sure to spread the cement over all patching areas – as well as into corners and ridges – as you apply it across the floor working from the furthest corner. The end result should be a perfectly flat tiling area with no holes or other imperfections. 

As you go along, use the trowel and float to smooth and evenly spread the wet cement, not forgetting corners and ridges. 

Finally, a tip from one of our London tilers and floorers – he says that you must wait a decent period for the surface to dry and bond properly before laying tiles. Depending on the weather conditions, allow at least four days.

Tags: bonding liquid, cement, corners, drying time, find a tiling-and-flooring specialist, holes, london-tiler-and-floorer, preparing, protective gear, ridges, screed, screeding, smooth, smoothing, sub floor, tiling, tiling experience, tiling-and-flooring quote, tools, wet
Posted in Tiling & Flooring | Comments Off

 

Replace Your Window Seals RSS

Posted in Handyman Services, Window & Door Fitting on May 28

Apart from letting in light, the windows in our homes play an important role in energy-efficiency factors too. Over time, the seals around the window frames perish, allowing water, air and of course dust into the house. Worn window seals can also lead to fogging inside the double glazing as moisture gets in. Since replacing window seals is a moderately difficult job – rather like working with putty – this may be a job that’s best left to the experts. You can find a window and door fitting expert right here on Mr-Skill. 

If you are determined to go ahead yourself, here’s how to go about it: Find a window-and-door-fitting expert on Mr-Skill

  • Check the glass carefully for cracks, chips or holes, and look to replacing any sheet where the outer or inner pane seems compromised. Glazing is a specialist job, so rather contact your local glass specialist, or get a handyman quote through Mr-Skill. Handling glass is inherently dangerous and is not a repair for the novice to consider.
  • Before replacing rubber seals around your windows, be sure to have the right replacement gaskets (gauge and profile). As you remove the old seal, slide the replacement into the same channel and trim to the correct length.
  • Older style windows, such as sash type, are likely to use putty as the anchoring agent. If the glass panes are undamaged and do not need replacing, remove all old putty and sealant around the glass, where it is held in place within the window frame. A putty knife could prove useful for cleaning out the crevices.Find a window-and-door-fitting expert on Mr-Skill
  • Load a tube of window-glazing sealant into a caulking gun, and trim the nozzle to the required size. Engage the ratchet-mechanism, and then squeeze the trigger to get the desired amount of sealant into the channel around the pane of glass.
  • Use a putty knife to neaten up the sealant, and then clear any surplus caulking immediately. 

One of our London window and door fitters advises that working with glass on a window frame can be challenging if you have no experience. He certainly would not encourage the DYI angle for any window that requires a ladder or scaffolding in place. Rather use the experts in the field, since they know what they are doing, and will complete the job professionally and quickly too.

Tags: caulking, caulking gun, chips, condensation, cracks, draft, find a window-and-door-fitting expert, fogging, frame, handyman quote, holes, london window and door fitter, sash window, seal, sealant, water, window
Posted in Handyman Services, Window & Door Fitting | Comments Off

 

Build a French Drain RSS

Posted in General Building on Sep 22

If you ignore a situation where the earth against an outside wall remains damp, and just wipe away the white powdery efflorescence from time to time, then you do yourself and your home a disservice. This is because permanent moisture can weaken bricks and cement over time

Solving this relatively common problem is easy when you know what to do. All you really need is a good back, a strong pair of arms, and a good spade.

o Dig a trench against the wall all the way along. The trench should be two spades wide and two spades deep.

o Extend your trench a little further to a point where you can dig a deeper hole one meter cubed in size. Fill this hole to the level of the bottom of the trench leading to it. Tradesmen in London usually have access to builder’s rubble. If you do not have this too, then you can use large stone chip instead.

You will need the following materials:

• A length of 50 mm plastic drainpipe that is half a meter longer than your trench, and one end cap (joined pipes are not a problem)

• Sufficient landscaping fabric to wind three times around this pipe, and half a dozen cable ties

• Sufficient large stone chip to fill the trench, and the hole if necessary.

o Assemble the 50 mm plastic drainpipe, using appropriate glue to secure the end cap and any joints. Drill a series of 8 mm holes through it spaced 20 cm apart. Make sure that these holes are in a straight line and directly opposite.

o Mark the end cap clearly opposite the two sets of holes. Wrap the pipe in the landscaping fabric (taking care not to obscure the end cap) and secure the fabric with a few cable ties.

o Lay the 50 mm pipe so that the open end protrudes over the hole. Pack stone chip under it until you have achieved a gentle downward slope, then rotate it until the marks on the end caps are horizontal. Back-fill the pipe, so that it does not deflect under downward pressure.

o Gently fill the trench with stone chip to 10 cm below the lip. Do the same to the hole, using rubble or more stone chip. Top up with earth to ground level or finish off with paving, and the job is finished.

How does this work? The dry stone in the hole draws moisture through the pipe from the trench outside. The landscaping fabric allows the water through, while keeping the holes unblocked. You will not need tradesmen quotes for such a simple job unless your back is troubling you. In that case, rather find a tradesman at Mr Skill.

Tags: build a french drain, chip, damp, damp outside wall, dig a french drain, drill, fill, find a tradesman, french drain, garden fabric, gravel, hole, holes, landscaping fabric, london tradesmen, plastic pipe, pvc pipe, rubble, spade, stone, tradesmen quotes, trench, wall
Posted in General Building | Comments Off

 

Winter’s ravages RSS

Posted in Dealing With The Four Seasons on Apr 13

After the worst winter the country – never mind the capital – has seen for decades the exterior of your home could well be fighting a losing battle against the elements.

The first sunny days of spring always tend to highlight all those areas that need a little bit of TLC after coping with the cold and damp, but the prolonged spell of snow and ice we’ve just experienced may have caused a lot more damage than the mild winters we’d grown used to.

Tree damage and red brick house in winter snow storm

Roofs, chimney stacks, gutters, paths, driveways and exterior woodwork could all have been affected in one way or another – and problems with these crucial areas need sorting as soon as possible. Now could be the time to call in an expert tradesman who can stop a minor crisis turning into a major – and expensive – drama later on.

The roof is your home’s first line of defence and will have taken a pounding this winter. The weight of snow or ice could have caused tiles or slates to slip or even crack, allowing water to penetrate. Other potential trouble spots include flaunching – the mortar securing a chimney pot to the stack – and mortar fillets where roofs abut walls. The mortar deteriorates over time, but freeze-thaw action could accelerate the process, allowing water to soak into brickwork or leaving the chimney in an unstable condition.

Like the proverbial stitch, when caught in time these defects are straightforward to remedy – but given the heights and ladderwork involved, are best left to the experts. And it’s worth bearing in mind that although the winter may have made things worse, problems of this kind may be the first indication that the roof is reaching the end of its useful life – an inspection from a reputable tradesman could be timely.

And don’t forget flat roofs. Even the best only has a lifespan of around 15 years and being under snow for days at a time will have tested even sound felt roofs to the limit. Damp patches can show up a long way from the source of a leak as the water tracks under the felt until it finds a way through, so damage isn’t always easy to find. An expert will know the likely trouble spots – perhaps where a window cleaner props a ladder – and should be able to make a simple patch repair if the felt is still in good condition.

Gutters and downpipes have had a lot of water to deal with over the winter – but it’s the weight of the frozen variety that could have caused damage. Plastic gutters may have cracked or distorted while festooned with icicles or when hit by mini-avalanches sliding off the roof. Gutter supports may have broken, allowing the gutter to sag and joints may have been opened up too.

A good downpour will show up these problems immediately, as water spills from sagging gutters or cascades through failed joints. At best this is a nuisance, at worst it can create damp areas on walls that can be unsightly or even potentially damaging. Replacing guttering is a simple job for a tradesman – and while he’s up there, get him to unblock downpipes and fit a guard to prevent clogging from leaves and debris doing so again.

Exterior woodwork never looks at its best come the spring, and again, the long cold spell will have made cracked or flaking areas worse. Get those bargeboards, soffits, doors, windows and more repainted to keep rot at bay – and to keep your home looking its best. At the same time, make sure that any missing or crumbling putty or sealant around frames is repaired to prevent water penetration.

Most of us will have noticed the poor state of the roads after the winter – freeze-thaw action has wreaked havoc, leaving potholes everywhere. Paths and driveways are subject to the same forces – and may have suffered just as much. Not only are holes and cracks potential trip hazards, but once started, the damage will go on getting worse. Unfortunately you can’t call in the council – but there are plenty of tradesmen who’ll be able to repair a concrete or tarmac area without major expense.

Tags: bargeboards, brickwork, chimney, chimney stacks, clogging, concrete, cracks, crumbling putty, damp patches, doors, downpipes, driveway, driveways, elements, expert, expert tradesman, exterior, exterior woodwork, felt, felt roofs, flat roofs, flaunting, freeze-thaw action, gutter, gutter supports, gutters, holes, home, ladder, ladderwork, mortar, mortar fillets, patch repair, path, paths, plastic gutters, potholes, repainted, reputable tradesman, roof, roofs, rot, sagging gutters, sealant, slates, snow and ice, soffits, tarmac, tiles, TLC, tradesman, trip hazards, trouble spots, unblock downpipes, water penetration, window cleaner, windows
Posted in Dealing With The Four Seasons | Comments Off

 
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