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Posts Tagged ‘Part P Approval<’
 If you are a long suffering parent, trying to get your kids to shower frequently (girls as well as boys in our experience!), you might find a solution to your problem amongst our inspirational shower options. Although many may look like you need an advanced physics degree in order to get your hair wet, these showers offer the ultimate in comfort, style and hygiene.
Modern shower cabins may closely resemble the appearance of the space shuttle, but for a healthy and luxurious “vertical bathing experience” there is nothing that comes close in personal hygiene. Many of these cabins double up as saunas with a high temperature steam generation facility to expedite blood circulation.
 Saunas also help to relax your body, improve blood circulation, eliminate fatigue and recover physical strength. For anybody who has breathing difficulties in your family, the shower cabin steam facility has a curative effect on asthma and bronchitis as well as easing rheumatism, rheumatic arthritis, and back pain. It helps you lose weight too!
The more advanced models have computerised LCD control panels to control the flow of water in the “rainfall” ceiling shower, production of steam, lighting, massaging jets, foot massager, ozone sterilisation system, sound system, telephone and the Whirlpool 96 model (pictured right) has an 8.4 inch television and four litre fridge!
 And it is not just shower cabins that can provide the ultimate showering experience. This exceptional shower from German manufacturer Kuhler (pictured right) is built into the entrance of an en-suite bathroom, so there is no excuse for forgetting to have that shower in the morning yourself – it is barely something you can walk past and ignore!
We have added a few more inspirational designs below to encourage your children to step into a world they may have never experienced before (a shower cabin – not a wash!). At around three grand per installation, you are going to spend a lot of money keeping your kids clean, but surely the little darlings are worth it?
For something a little more modest, you might like to try your hand at fitting your own shower units. We have a four part guide in our Project Advice section which covers how to install the drainage, how to connect the water supply, how to fit the shower tray and how to install the shower enclosure. If you do not fancy doing it yourself, why not ask one of the highly rated tradesmen in our Tradesmen´s Directory to email you with some tradesmen´s quotes. London is also the home for many good plumbers, builders, electricians and handymen, and you can alert them to your need for a new shower installation in our “Post-a-Job” facility at the top of each page.
Tags: Bath and Heating, bathroom, body jet shower, Building Regulations Part H, Building Regulations Part P, Central Heating, Electrical Work, Find a Builder in London, Find a Plumber in London, Find a Tiler in London, Find an Electrician in London, Handyman Services, Part P Approval, Plumbing, shower cabins, shower enclosure, shower tray, showers, water pipes, water pressure, water pump
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 To install a shower in your bathroom requires four stages – the waste pipes and trap, the water supply for your shower, the installation of a shower tray and fitting the shower enclosure. For the first two elements, you may need the services of a plumber in London or, for the latter two, a local handyman to help with the installation. Also, if you are going to be including a direct heat water boiler in your shower installation (rather than run it from your existing central heating supply) or a new shower pump, you will need to have your electrical work checked by a London electrician to ensure that it complies with the Building Regulations Part P.
Please note that if you are considering a body jet shower, direct heat water boilers do not have the power capacity for delivering a sufficient volume of water.
Stage4 – Fitting the Shower Enclosure
If you have not yet bought your shower enclosure, you might just want to take a look at our “Inspirations” feature about body jet showers and shower cabins. There are many different types of shower enclosures you can choose from and many of them will come with their own fitting instructions, but as a rule they follow the procedures below.
Note: With any enclosure it is vital that the wall and tray are fully waterproof, and that the uprights of the frame are vertical.
Start by laying the two fixed side panels flat, and putting a bead of anti-fungal silicone sealant into the channels at the top and bottom. Then gently attach the head and sill rails (there are normally screws provided) and slide on the plastic guide tracks. If the tracks are too long, use a hacksaw to trim them to the required length.
Push two of doorstops into the guide tracks and move them into the middle but do not tighten them up yet.
Stand the shower enclosure upright and slide the curved sliding doors into the head and sill rails, ensuring that the doors are the right way round! Then insert another doorstop into both the head and sill rails. Again, do not tighten them up yet.
Attach the wall channels to each side of the shower enclosure and stand it up on the shower tray – double checking that it is vertical. From the inside of the shower enclosure, use a wipe-dry marker pen to mark the positions for the fixing holes on the wall through the pre-drilled holes in the wall channels.
Take the shower enclosure away from the shower tray and check for hidden pipes and cables behind the fixing positions you have just made on the wall with an electronic detector. If all is clear then drill the fixing holes in the marked positions. Push rawlplugs into the holes, making sure they go in beyond the depth of the tile.
Run a generous bead of anti-fungal silicone sealant down both wall channels. Put the enclosure back onto the shower tray, screw in the fixing screws and remove any excess sealant with a wet sponge.
From inside the shower enclosure, drill holes in the wall channels and into the frame. Secure with the screws that are normally provided and cover the heads with screw caps (usually also normally provided). Drill through the plastic guide track and inner head channel, and now you can screw the doorstops into position.
If you have not already done so, seal the join between the tray and the tiled wall with a continuous bead of sanitary silicone sealant and continue around the outside edges of the enclosure.
If you have difficulty with fitting the shower enclosure, or with any stage of installing a new shower, you may wish to take advantage of some of the services available from tradesmen in London to help you finish the job
A tiler in London if your bathroom or shower room requires tiling or you have recessed the pipework into a wall. This is best done before completing the installation of your new shower.
A London plumber will also be able to help connect the waste pipe from your new shower to an existing waste water escape and assist with construction of the pipework for a new installation.
Local electricians in London will be required if you are installing an electric water heater or pump for your shower. Even if you are confident of doing this part of the job by yourself, your finished installation still requires “approval” under Part P of the Building Regulations
For other stages of “How to Install a Shower”, please see:-
Stage 1 – Drainage
Stage 2 – The Water Supply
Stage 3 – The Shower Tray
Tags: anti-fungal, Bath and Heating, bathroom, body jet shower, Building Regulations Part H, Building Regulations Part P, Central Heating, drainage system, drainpipe, Electrical Work, Find a Builder in London, Find a Plumber in London, Find a Tiler in London, Find an Electrician in London, Handyman Services, Part P Approval, Plumbing, shower enclosure, shower tray, showers, silicone sealant, waste pipes, water pipes, water pressure, water pump, water trap
Posted in Plumbing, Heating & Gas | Comments Off
 To install a shower in your bathroom requires four stages – the waste pipes and trap, the water supply for your shower, the installation of a shower tray and fitting the shower enclosure. For the first two elements, you may need the services of a plumber in London or, for the latter two, a local handyman to help with the installation. Also, if you are going to be including a direct heat water boiler in your shower installation (rather than run it from your existing central heating supply) or a new shower pump, you will need to have your electrical work checked by a London electrician to ensure that it complies with the Building Regulations Part P.
Please note that if you are considering a body jet shower, direct heat water boilers do not have the power capacity for delivering a sufficient volume of water.
Stage 3 – Installing a Shower Tray
Once the waste drainage is prepared and water supply connected, you are ready to install the shower tray and connect its waste outlet to the trap. Read any manufacturer’s installation instructions that come with the shower tray, since different designs may be fitted in slightly different ways.
First, hold the shower tray on its side and run a bead of anti-fungal silicone sealant around the waste hole. Ideally you want to use a sanitary sealant for use in wet and humid areas. A local handyman in London should be able to provide you with a tube and a mastic gun.
Insert the waste outlet into the exit hole of the shower tray, so that it sits into the sealant. Make sure that you have fitted any washers supplied with the shower tray, and screw on the locking nut using an adjustable spanner. Fit the trap to the waste outlet.
Mix some mortar and using a trowel, lay a thin bed of mortar on the floor where the shower tray will be positioned. Rest the tray in place, bed it into the mortar and level it up with a spirit level. Tidy around the base of the shower tray, using a wet sponge to remove any excess and prevent scratches.
Open the floor hatch which gives access to the waste pipe and connect the water trap leading from the shower tray.
If you experience any difficulty with this project, or with any stage of installing a shower, you may wish to take advantage of some of the services available from tradesmen in London to help you finish the job
A tiler in London if your bathroom or shower room requires tiling or you have recessed the pipework into a wall. This is best done before completing the installation of your new shower.
A London plumber will also be able to help connect the waste pipe from your new shower to an existing waste water escape and assist with construction of the pipework for a new installation.
Local electricians in London will be required if you are installing an electric water heater or pump for your shower. Even if you are confident of doing this part of the job by yourself, your finished installation still requires “approval” under Part P of the Building Regulations
For other stages of “How to Install a Shower”, please see:-
Stage 1 – Drainage
Stage 2 – The Water Supply
Stage 4 – The Shower Enclosure
Tags: anti-fungal, Bath and Heating, bathroom, body jet shower, Building Regulations Part H, Building Regulations Part P, Central Heating, drainage system, drainpipe, Electrical Work, Find a Builder in London, Find a Plumber in London, Find a Tiler in London, Find an Electrician in London, Handyman Services, Part P Approval, Plumbing, shower enclosure, shower tray, showers, silicone sealant, waste pipes, water pipes, water pressure, water pump, water trap
Posted in Plumbing, Heating & Gas | Comments Off
 To install a shower in your bathroom requires four stages – the waste pipes and trap, the water supply to your shower, the installation of a shower tray and fitting the shower enclosure. For the first two elements, you may need the services of a plumber in London or, for the latter two, a local handyman to help with the installation. Also, if you are going to be including a direct heat water boiler in your shower installation (rather than run it from your existing central heating supply) or a new shower pump, you will need to have your electrical work checked by a London electrician to ensure that it complies with the Building Regulations Part P.
Please note that if you are considering a body jet shower, direct heat water boilers do not have the power capacity for delivering a sufficient volume of water.
Stage 2 – The Water Supply
When thinking about installing a new shower, you have to consider where the water supply is going to come from and whether you are going to require a water pump for your shower. Most modern shower heads are designed to operate with a tenth of a bar of pressure, but that would barely be enough to get you wet – let alone have an invigorating power shower! The way to establish whether you need a pump or not is to calculate what the “unpressurised” (without a pump) pressure would be if you connected you shower to the cold water tank and relied on gravity to supply water to your shower.
The pressure rating is calculated by measuring the vertical distance between the bottom of the cold water tank and the head of the shower. So, if your cold water tank is in the attic of a three storey house and your new shower is on the ground floor, the distance between the two could be as much as 8 metres or 0.8 bar – which is a reasonable level of pressure. However, please note that if the pipes between the cold water tank and the shower head have a lot of bends or long horizontal runs, the pressure will be reduced accordingly. Including a water pump into the equation can increase the water pressure to 2 or 3 bar, but you will also need to fit a pressure reducing valve and, as with all shower installations, an isolation valve is recommended.
Power showers and body jet showers have their own integral pumps and should only be supplied directly from the cold water mains water.
To work efficiently, showers using mixer taps require their own dedicated water feeds direct from the hot and cold storage tanks. It is recommended by plumbers in London that you should use 22mm pipes to give a better flow of water and obtaining your water supply from the kitchen (which probably only uses 15mm pipes) is definitely not a good idea. A dedicated cold water feed also means that if somebody flushes the loo while you are in the shower you will not get scalded while the cold water diverts to filling up the cistern, or have to wait until it has finished to rinse off soap! Hot water can be taken from a branch pipe, but if water is drawn from the source for another purpose (i.e. filling up a sink) the water in your shower may run cold. If the hot supply is to be taken from the cylinder distribution pipe the connection point should ideally be made above the height of the cylinder top.
If it is a thermostatic shower is being installed, then the hot and cold water supplies can be taken from any source, as the water temperature is self-controlled by the built-in stabiliser. You still may experience period of temporary low water pressure if those other sources are in use, but at least you will enjoy a constant temperature. Shower cabins and body jet showers, usually use mixer taps to control the temperature and power of water, but check the manufacturer’s instructions just to be certain.
If you have difficulty with putting together the pipework, or have chosen to recess it into the bathroom wall, you may wish to take advantage of some of the services available from tradesmen in London to help you finish the job
A tiler in London if your bathroom or shower room requires tiling or you have recessed the pipework into a wall. This is best done before completing the installation of your new shower.
A London plumber will also be able to help connect the waste pipe from your new shower to an existing waste water escape and assist with construction of the pipework for a new installation.
Local electricians in London will be required if you are installing an electric water heater or pump for your shower. Even if you are confident of doing this part of the job by yourself, your finished installation still requires “approval” under Part P of the Building Regulations
For other stages of “How to Install a Shower”, please see:-
Stage 1 – Drainage
Stage 3 – The Shower Tray
Stage 4 – The Shower Enclosure
Tags: anti-fungal, Bath and Heating, bathroom, body jet shower, Building Regulations Part H, Building Regulations Part P, Central Heating, drainage system, drainpipe, Electrical Work, Find a Builder in London, Find a Plumber in London, Find a Tiler in London, Find an Electrician in London, Handyman Services, Part P Approval, Plumbing, shower enclosure, shower tray, showers, silicone sealant, waste pipes, water pipes, water pressure, water pump, water trap
Posted in Plumbing, Heating & Gas | Comments Off
 To install a shower in your bathroom requires four stages – the waste pipes and trap, the water supply for your shower, the installation of a shower tray and fitting the shower enclosure. For the first two elements, you may need the services of a plumber in London or, for the latter two, a local handyman to help with the installation. Also, if you are going to be including a direct heat water boiler in your shower installation (rather than run it from your existing central heating supply) or a new shower pump, you will need to have your electrical work checked by a London electrician to ensure that it complies with the Building Regulations Part P.
Please note that if you are considering a body jet shower, direct heat water boilers do not have the power capacity for delivering a sufficient volume of water.
Stage 1 – Drainage
How you deal with the drainage from your shower may influence the type of shower enclosure you are able to install, so it is best to get this stage dealt with first. If your new shower is replacing an existing installation, waste pipes will already be in place. If it is a completely new installation, you will have to create an escape route for the waste water and connect it to an existing waste pipe – a nearby sink or toilet.
Dealing with the drainage when you are replacing an old shower unit with a new one is quite easy. The new shower tray will include the fittings to attach it to your existing waste pipe and there is no need to make any further adjustments in respect of the drainage of waste water from your new shower.
If it is a new shower installation, you should be able to cut a hole in the floor to install the waste pipe and water trap. You may need to have access to the water trap at some later date so extend the hole for the waste trap beyond where the outside edge of the shower tray will be or make a separate hatch nearby. If the floor is solid or there is not enough space beneath the shower for the pipework and water trap, you could consider installing the shower on a plinth (in which case you will need to reconsider the height of the faucet and shower enclosure) or purchasing a shower enclosure which accommodates a step up to the tray.
You also need to work out how you are going to run the drainage pipes from the shower and check how much space there is for the pipework beneath the proposed location for the shower tray. The waste shower water has to be connected via a 40mm diameter waste pipe to an existing drainage installation, and can travel no further than 3 metres before entering the soil stack or discharge gulley.
Building Regulations (Part H) has different guidelines for the depth of the water trap that has to be installed on the ground floor (38mm) or a higher floor (75mm) and if you are in any doubt about how to connect your shower drainage to an existing drainage installation, please consult with a London builder.
Other tradesmen in London that you may also need the services of include:-
A tiler in London if your bathroom or shower room requires tiling or you have recessed the pipework into a wall. This is best done before completing the installation of your new shower.
A London plumber will also be able to help connect the waste pipe from your new shower to an existing waste water escape and assist with construction of the pipework for a new installation.
Local electricians in London will be required if you are installing an electric water heater or pump for your shower. Even if you are confident of doing this part of the job by yourself, your finished installation still requires “approval” under Part P of the Building Regulations.
For further stages of “How to Install a Shower”, please see:-
Stage 2 – The Water Supply
Stage 3 – The Shower Tray
Stage 4 – The Shower Enclosure
Tags: anti-fungal, Bath and Heating, bathroom, body jet shower, Building Regulations Part H, Building Regulations Part P, Central Heating, drainage system, drainpipe, Electrical Work, Find a Builder in London, Find a Plumber in London, Find a Tiler in London, Find an Electrician in London, Handyman Services, Part P Approval, Plumbing, shower enclosure, shower tray, showers, silicone sealant, waste pipes, water pipes, water pressure, water pump, water trap
Posted in Plumbing, Heating & Gas | Comments Off
 Installing recessed lighting is a fairly advanced project. It may be of value to you to consult with a London electrician featured in our Tradesmen´s Directory before starting a job of this nature and, if installing recessed lighting in either the kitchen, bathroom or garden you will need permission from your local Building Control before you start and a London electrician to check your work is compliant with Part P of the Building Regulations when the job is complete. Any new circuits you introduce to your property may also need to be passed, so please account for the cost of this procedure when costing your job and request some electrician quotes by using the “Post-a-Job” facility at the top of the page.
Before installing recessed lighting, you should consider the final effect that you wish to achieve. There are a number of different recessed lighting designs you can use to maximise light and space or to highlight specific objects in your home.
The most common type of recessed light is the downlight. Normally these will illuminate an area equal to the height of the light. Therefore, if your ceiling is 8 feet high, the light will shine directly down and cover a circular area with an 8 foot diameter. If you are considering using downlights over a wide area, you will need to overlap the area lit by each light and it is recommended that you install your downlights at a distance of approximately 6 feet apart.
 Eyeball lights are particularly good if you have a sloped ceiling or wish to highlight a particular decorative element of your home. When illuminating areas like fireplace mantelpieces, the distance from the light to the wall should be 60% (multiply by .6) of the distance from the ceiling to the object – For example, if your mantelpiece is 5 feet from the ceiling, the distance from the wall to where the light is installed is (5 feet x 60%) 3 feet.
The first light should be planned to be about 3 feet away from the wall. Placing the light closer to the wall will create more reflection into the room and make the space feel brighter. Placing the lights further away will make the corners seem dark, create a more ambient impression and give the effect of lowering the ceiling.
Lighting in kitchens needs to be a little brighter. If installing your recessed lights into existing cabinets, they need to be spaced every 3 to 4 feet to illuminate the counter top. In general, for a kitchen, you should allow 3 watts of incandescent light per square foot. To calculate how much light you need, calculate the total square area of the kitchen and divide by three. If using CFLs (Compact Fluorescent Light Bulbs) refer to the manufacturer´s equivalent measurement.
You can safely have as many lights in your new recessed installation as were in your existing fitting. If you are considering exceeding the existing wattage, consult a London electrician before proceeding.
Getting Started
Turn off the power – not just the lighting circuit, but the whole house if possible. This is case you accidently drill through a power cable in a wall or ceiling joist.
If your existing circuit supports the extra load you are installing, there is no need to remove the existing fitting. However, if you choose to do so it is easiest to plan your lighting set-up so that one of the lights you are installing makes use of the hole that will be left by the existing fittings´ removal. Alternatively you could install a ceiling fan or a decorative cover plate that would disguise where the old fitting came from and prevent the need to redecorate the whole ceiling or wall.
Making the Holes
Once you have measured the location for each light, use the manufacturer´s template that comes with the light units to mark the ceiling for each hole you are going to make. Drill a ¼ inch hole in the ceiling at the centre of the proposed opening and then use a jigsaw to make the openings for each of the light mountings (“cans”).
Run a cable from the power source (this could be the light switch or an existing junction box) to the location of the first recessed light. Leave an additional 18 inches of wire hanging from the opening to enable easy wiring of the cans. Continue to feed cable through to each of the openings, drilling carefully through ceiling joists if necessary and feeding the cable through.
Wiring
 Wire the first can to the cable leading from the power source and the cable leading to the next opening and continue connecting the fixtures until you reach the last one. Mount the cans into the openings in the ceiling and add the trim pieces according to the manufacturer´s instructions.
You are now ready to screw in the light bulbs, reconnect the power and view your new recessed lighting effect.
There are several images of how your finished project may look in our “Inspirations” feature and also in our blog – “Improve the Value and Appeal of Your Home”. We strongly recommend that you obtain advice and quotes from electricians in London in respect of Part P Approval and also for any assistance you need with the job itself. London handymen, kitchen fitters, decorators and general builders can also be contacted through our Tradesmen´s Directory, so if you feel that there may be elements of this project which may stretch your abilities, please do not hesitate to use this valuable resource.
Tags: Building Control, compact fluorescent light bulb, Decorating & Interior Design, downlight, electrical cabling, electrical circuit, Electrical Work, Electricians in London, eyeball light, Find an Electrician in London, floodlight, Home Improvements, interior decoration, kitchens, lighting, Part P Approval, recessed lighting, spotlight, wiring
Posted in Electrical Work, Gardening & Landscaping, General Building, Handyman Services, Painting & Decorating | Comments Off
 Outdoor lighting is an effective means of highlighting the most attractive areas of your garden – and shading some of those which are less desirable. It is perfect for adding extra security to your garden, creating a karmic environment or for outside entertaining, and is certain to attract positive attention plus improve the appeal and value of your home.
 Adding lighting effects need not be expensive. A modest lighting scheme may set you back less than a hundred pounds and can be done with the help of a local landscaper in London – although it may be more cost efficient to get some handyman quotes as well before you start. For more elaborate schemes you may need the assistance of a builder in London to help with the reconstruction of any patio areas, and you will definitely require the services of a London electrician  as introducing any lighting scheme in your garden will need permission from Building Control before you start and Part P Approval once the work is completed. If it already seems like it is too much trouble – it´s not. The additional security and value that you will achieve by brightening up your garden is extremely worthwhile.
 You need not have an incredibly large garden either. Small gardens can still be brought to life in the hours of darkness with selective lighting, although you should be careful – no matter what size of garden you have – not to cause undo light pollution and upset all your neighbours! Your choice of lights and lighting fixtures is going to be determined by what you want to achieve with your lighting and how much budget you have. It is well worth speaking with a few exterior design professionals and getting quotes from landscapers in London when you are in the concept stage of your garden lighting. There will be some things which are impractical to do, or your local electricians in London will advise you will not pass planning. Furthermore, consider where your power source is coming from. You may not want an electrical cable running across your lawn, and could benefit from the installation of solar lighting.
There are also many different lighting techniques that you may want to consider:-
Uplighting – This is a subtle way to light up gazebos, pergolas, large tree branches and the sides of buildings. Fixtures are normally fixed at low level or on the ground to create this effect.
Downlighting – Lighting fixtures situated above head level shine light down from trees, walls and roofs. This is a handy technique for illuminating large areas.
Spotlighting – Using spotlights to pick out individual features can be enchanting and create the impression of a deceptively large garden.
Crosslighting – This is where lights are placed on either side of an object (such as a tree or statue) to reveal more detail and create a more subtle shadow effect.
Silhouetting – An exceptionally effective form of lighting where the source of the light is positioned behind a large object to spray light out from behind.
Shadowing – where recessed lighting is placed in front of an object to cast dramatic shadows – often larger than the object itself!
Moonlighting – A romantic moonlight effect created by downlighting a subtle low-voltage light through the branches of trees.
Spread Lighting – This technique illuminates large flat areas, such as lawns and terraces, by creating a circular spread of light.
Water Lighting – If you have a water source, such as a pond or pool in your garden, you can integrate your existing water lighting with the improvements you are making to the rest of the garden. Although underwater lighting can be more expensive, the effects you can get are astonishing.
 You may also want to consider lighting up paths, steps and decking. This can be done in a number of ways, with the most popular being “walk-over” lights being built into the step. Disguising light sources under steps and handrails gives a more subtle light and makes a dark area of your garden safer to navigate.
 Do not forget to think about colours as well! Green filters are a popular choice, and white lights bring out the best in water features. You may want to select a colour scheme which matches the summer plants throughout your garden or integrate a mixture of lighting ideas to compliment specific areas of your garden. Whichever you choose, the local tradesmen in London featured in our Tradesmen´s Directory will be keen to help with any inspiration you need to brighten up your garden with outdoor lighting.
Tags: add value to your property, Building Control, Electrical Work, Electricians in London, Find a Builder in London, find a handyman in London, Find a Landscape Gardener in London, garden lighting, Gardening & Landscaping, General Builders, Handyman Services, light pollution, lighting, low voltage lighting, Part P Approval, perimeter security, security
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 The 100% Design Show comes to Earls Court between Thursday 23rd and Sunday 26th September, exhibiting interior design concepts from around the globe.
 Reminding us that “design is born from and for human needs and desires”, the show will feature many contemporary artists from the world of lighting – not only with finished products for sale, but also supplying the materials with which you can build your own creation and offering advice about how you can transform existing lighting installations in your home. There is also a section dedicated to “Futures” which will showcase many innovative lighting designs from the world of interior decoration.
The world of lighting is changing rapidly due to government initiatives to reduce CO2 emissions which encourage property owners to switch from traditional incandescent lighting to that provided by compact fluorescent light bulbs, and many of the exhibits on display will feature low voltage and energy saving lighting installations.
This is an excellent opportunity for homeowners and local tradesmen alike to witness the up-and-coming styles in domestic electrical lighting installations however, if you are tempted to visit the exhibition, it may be advisable to ensure that you are familiar with electrical building regulations (Part P) in order that you do not spend a fantastic sum of money on an eye-catching feature for your home which you are unable to install. Some low voltage lighting installations do require Part P Approval before using them because of their independent electrical transformers.
For more information on the show, exhibitors, opening times and details on how to get to the exhibition centre, please visit the 100% Design Show web site. For information relating to electrical lighting installations in the home, please contact one the highly rated tradesmen in our Tradesmen´s Directory or ask your question via our “Post-a-Job” facility at the top of the page.
Tags: Building Regulations Part P, CFL light bulbs, compact fluorescent light bulb, energy efficiency, energy saving, exhibition, interior decoration, light, low voltage lighting, Part P Approval
Posted in Painting & Decorating | Comments Off
 Vampires have never had a good press and deservedly so. Vampires in your home suck the life out of the environment and at least a tenner each month out of your pocket – and you may need the services of the highly rated London tradesmen from our tradesmen´s directory to get rid of them.
What we are talking about are gadgets which consume “Vampire Power” – a term first used in the States to refer to the energy used by domestic appliances left on standby overnight. The wasted power consumed by appliances such as TVs, computer equipment and mobile phone chargers in the UK not only costs you money, but indirectly causes the release of millions of tones of CO2 emissions into the environment.
How to Slay Vampires
It sounds easy to say that all that you have to do is to turn off all your electrical appliances each night, but how many of us do that? The reason that these gadgets have a standby facility is for convenience to the consumer and not only is it inconvenient to remove the plug each night, it is a pain to plug them all back in when you next want to use them. However, if you place your hand on a mobile phone charger that has been left all night, you will feel the heat coming from it – heat which has been generated by electricity way after your mobile phone has finished charging. This is electricity that you are paying for and not using. Not only is this a waste of money, but causes needless energy to be generated by power plants which are a major contributor to high levels of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, pollution and global warning.
 Your local tradesman can suggest a number of effective devices that remove the element of inconvenience and help you save money by using less power in your home. These include power strips that enable you to turn off multiple devices with just the flick of a switch – you can even have a switch fitted by a local tradesman adjacent to your light switch so that you disconnect the power as you turn off the lights in the evening. Not only does this mean that you are not inconvenienced by switching off all the gadgets in your home, it also reduces the risk of fire breaking out.
 You might even want to consider having timing devices fitted by your local tradesman to your electrical sockets so that you do not even have to worry about remembering to disconnect your power supply, and for the very technically advanced, you can even ask a local tradesman to install a program on your computer that controls the timings for all the electrical appliances in your home. For those that have Internet access via your mobile phone, all you have to do is press one key on your mobile to turn off all your power wasting appliances and put those vampires to bed!
How much difference does it make?
In turns of saving the environment, individually very little. But here are some statistics that an energy-conscious local tradesman would be able to confirm:-
- One computer left on all day results in the emission of 1500 pounds of carbon dioxide in a year. It takes up to 500 trees to absorb that amount of extra carbon dioxide released into the atmosphere.
- A video recorder left on standby uses 80% of the electricity consumed when it is actually playing.
- If everyone in the UK turned off their TV overnight it would save more than £66 million in electricity bills each year.
- Incredibly, stereos and radios left with the little red light on, account for over 1.6 million tonnes of carbon emissions each year. Based on the computer scenario above, that amount of carbon released into the atmosphere requires over 2.35 million trees to soak it up – more than are planned in London in the next fifteen years.
For more details about the volume of carbon we pump into the atmosphere, there is a news item on the BBC you may find of interest, you can visit the Energy Saving Trust web site or speak to one of the local tradesmen familiar with energy saving issues and are featured in our tradesmen´s directory.
How Much Will I Save?
 It is difficult to put a definitive figure on your potential savings because so many homes use different appliances and of these, some will be older and less energy efficient. However, a report prepared by the University of Strathclyde calculated that the energy wasted through appliances left on standby in an average home amounted to 525Kw per year. At current electricity prices in London, that amounts to £99.75 per year for the average household. If you have children, it is likely to be much higher.
 Plus there are other considerations to take into account. We have already mentioned the heat that is generated from a mobile phone charger when it has been in use. All of your electrical appliances are a source of heat, and by switching them off when not in use you will also save money on the cost of cooling your home during the summer months. Furthermore, if using a power strip with a surge detector, you will eliminate the possibility of damage to your appliances when they are switched on through a spike in voltage.
 It is always financially worth speaking with a local tradesman about energy saving devices. Some electrical changes in the home required Part P Approval by a qualified engineer – particularly in the bathroom and kitchen – and the highly rated tradesmen featured in our tradesmen´s directory are always happy to pay a visit to your home to advise you on the most efficient way to rid your house of the vampires, help the environment and save you money – with not a clove of garlic in sight!
Tags: carbon dioxide, computers, domestic appliances, electricity prices, Energy Saving Trust, environment, global warming, mobile phones, Part P Approval, power strip, save money, standby, Surge Protector, televisions, times, Tradesmen´s Directory
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