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Posts Tagged ‘wiring<’
Posted in Electrical Work on Mar 06
Thankfully as winter starts to move on, now is a good time to check that your outside lights are in good working order. Some of the work is easy and safe enough to do yourself. Changing a bulb is a good example, as is cleaning the glass in the light fitting. If the light is not working though, you would be better off using a qualified electrician to solve the problem. Wiring and switching is too dangerous for an unqualified person to work on. Rather check with Mr Skill, find a qualified electrician, and ask them for an electrical quote.

- Make sure that the light switch is in the “off” position. Better still; isolate the light circuit on your electrical board.
- Have a stepladder handy should you need to reach up to the light fitting.
- You may have to remove a piece of glass to access the bulb.
- Wipe the interior of the light fitting with a clean rag.
- Now, remove the old bulb. Be careful, it might be hot.
- Replace the bulb with a correctly-rated new one.
- London electricians always recommend using energy-efficient bulbs. They may cost more, but they will last much longer and therefore require less maintenance.
- Refit the glass panel, having cleaned the surface first.
- Test the new bulb once you have installed it, by flicking the light switch to “on” after you re-set the distribution board.
- Never replace a bulb with a wattage-rating higher than the fitting manufacturers recommended maximum.
If, after having been through the above steps the bulb still does not light up when you switch it on, find an electrician by clicking on Mr Skill.
It’s all about horses for courses and being smart. You wouldn’t consider using a plumber to fix your own car, so be wary of trying to fix your own electrical problems!
Tags: bulb, check, circuit, cloth, cost, efficient, electrical board, electrical quote, energy, find an electrician, fitting, glass, ladder, light, london electricians, maintenance, off, on, rag, rate, screw, switch, test, wipe, wiring Posted in Electrical Work | Comments Off
Posted in Building A-Z on Oct 06
Most DIY enthusiasts, handymen and builders in London will have a case full of different drill bits to cope with different drilling tasks. Wood drill bits, metal drill bits and masonry drill bits are the three most common, and inasmuch as many people appreciate that the drill bits are manufactured for specific tasks, not a lot of people know why drill bits are designed the way they are and how best to use them.
Drilling Wood
Almost any drill bit can be used for drilling a hole in a soft wood, but the “lip and spur” drill bit is best to use. It has a centring point which keeps the drill bit steady against the wood (the “spur”) whilst the raised corners of the drill bit cut through fibres within the grain of the wood cleanly – before the inner parts of the cutting edges plane off the base of the hole. Also ideal for drilling through soft plastics, the “lip and spur” is usually used in sizes from 3mm (1/8th inch) to 16mm (5/8th inch).
For wider holes, spade or paddle bits are recommended. These are flat-headed drill bits with a centring point and two cutters which are equipped with spurs to enable a cleaner cutting edge.
Augur wood drill bits are made with a spur, single cutting edge and a “flute” for removing waste from the drilled hole and are particularly useful for drilling deep holes in wooden surfaces.
Drilling Metal
There are many different types of drill bits for drilling through metal, and your choice of bit should depend on the type of metal you are drilling through (steel, stainless steel or aluminium for example) and the size of hole that you wish to make. The larger the hole, the more friction will be created and the hotter the drill bit will become leading to overheating and damage to the drill bit. Most power drill handbooks provided recommended drilling speeds for drilling through metal and you can also refer to Mr Skill´s Project Advice article on “How to Drill Through Metal” and our “Drill Speed Chart”.
The cheaper metal drill bits are made from high carbon steel, but lose their cutting edge quickly if allowed to overheat. Therefore, most builders in London have a preference for “high speed steel” which can be used to drill through metal, hardwood and most other materials at higher speeds. Although being more brittle than “high speed steel”, drill bits made from cobalt steel alloys hold their hardness at much higher temperatures, whilst tungsten carbide drill bits are the toughest of the lot. Due to its expense, tungsten carbide – and polycrystalline diamond (PCD) – is most commonly used on the tips of metal cutting drill bits.
Coatings are frequently used on metal cutting drill bits to provide heat resistance and increase lubricity. The most common are black oxide and titanium nitrate, which can extend the life of a drill bit three or four times, although the benefits or titanium aluminium nitride and titanium carbon nitride are worth the expense if you do a lot of drilling through metals such as stainless steel and nickel alloys.
Drilling Masonry
Masonry bits are usually used with a hammer drill by builders in London. The bit is both hammered and rotated into the masonry – the hammering breaks up the masonry at the drill bit tip, whilst the rotating flutes of the drill bit body carry away the dust. Rotating the bit brings the cutting edges in contact with a fresh portion of the hole with every hammer blow.
Masonry bits of the style shown are commonly available in diameters from 5mm (¼ inch) to 40mm (1½ inches). For larger diameters, core bits are used. Masonry bits up to 1000mm (39 inches) long can be used with hand-portable power tools, and are very effective for installing wiring and plumbing.
This is only a selection of the most common drill bits used in home improvement. If you require any further information on specialist drilling tools, please consult one of the highly rated builders in London featured in our Tradesmen´s Directory.
Tags: aluminium, builder, drill, drill bits, drill speeds, drilling masonry, drilling metal, drilling wood, Find a Builder in London, find a handyman in London, General Builders, hammer, Handyman Services, masonry, Plumbing, power drills, stainless steel, steel, wiring Posted in Building A-Z | Comments Off
Installing recessed lighting is a fairly advanced project. It may be of value to you to consult with a London electrician featured in our Tradesmen´s Directory before starting a job of this nature and, if installing recessed lighting in either the kitchen, bathroom or garden you will need permission from your local Building Control before you start and a London electrician to check your work is compliant with Part P of the Building Regulations when the job is complete. Any new circuits you introduce to your property may also need to be passed, so please account for the cost of this procedure when costing your job and request some electrician quotes by using the “Post-a-Job” facility at the top of the page.
Before installing recessed lighting, you should consider the final effect that you wish to achieve. There are a number of different recessed lighting designs you can use to maximise light and space or to highlight specific objects in your home.
The most common type of recessed light is the downlight. Normally these will illuminate an area equal to the height of the light. Therefore, if your ceiling is 8 feet high, the light will shine directly down and cover a circular area with an 8 foot diameter. If you are considering using downlights over a wide area, you will need to overlap the area lit by each light and it is recommended that you install your downlights at a distance of approximately 6 feet apart.
Eyeball lights are particularly good if you have a sloped ceiling or wish to highlight a particular decorative element of your home. When illuminating areas like fireplace mantelpieces, the distance from the light to the wall should be 60% (multiply by .6) of the distance from the ceiling to the object – For example, if your mantelpiece is 5 feet from the ceiling, the distance from the wall to where the light is installed is (5 feet x 60%) 3 feet.
The first light should be planned to be about 3 feet away from the wall. Placing the light closer to the wall will create more reflection into the room and make the space feel brighter. Placing the lights further away will make the corners seem dark, create a more ambient impression and give the effect of lowering the ceiling.
Lighting in kitchens needs to be a little brighter. If installing your recessed lights into existing cabinets, they need to be spaced every 3 to 4 feet to illuminate the counter top. In general, for a kitchen, you should allow 3 watts of incandescent light per square foot. To calculate how much light you need, calculate the total square area of the kitchen and divide by three. If using CFLs (Compact Fluorescent Light Bulbs) refer to the manufacturer´s equivalent measurement.
You can safely have as many lights in your new recessed installation as were in your existing fitting. If you are considering exceeding the existing wattage, consult a London electrician before proceeding.
Getting Started
Turn off the power – not just the lighting circuit, but the whole house if possible. This is case you accidently drill through a power cable in a wall or ceiling joist.
If your existing circuit supports the extra load you are installing, there is no need to remove the existing fitting. However, if you choose to do so it is easiest to plan your lighting set-up so that one of the lights you are installing makes use of the hole that will be left by the existing fittings´ removal. Alternatively you could install a ceiling fan or a decorative cover plate that would disguise where the old fitting came from and prevent the need to redecorate the whole ceiling or wall.
Making the Holes
Once you have measured the location for each light, use the manufacturer´s template that comes with the light units to mark the ceiling for each hole you are going to make. Drill a ¼ inch hole in the ceiling at the centre of the proposed opening and then use a jigsaw to make the openings for each of the light mountings (“cans”).
Run a cable from the power source (this could be the light switch or an existing junction box) to the location of the first recessed light. Leave an additional 18 inches of wire hanging from the opening to enable easy wiring of the cans. Continue to feed cable through to each of the openings, drilling carefully through ceiling joists if necessary and feeding the cable through.
Wiring
Wire the first can to the cable leading from the power source and the cable leading to the next opening and continue connecting the fixtures until you reach the last one. Mount the cans into the openings in the ceiling and add the trim pieces according to the manufacturer´s instructions.
You are now ready to screw in the light bulbs, reconnect the power and view your new recessed lighting effect.
There are several images of how your finished project may look in our “Inspirations” feature and also in our blog – “Improve the Value and Appeal of Your Home”. We strongly recommend that you obtain advice and quotes from electricians in London in respect of Part P Approval and also for any assistance you need with the job itself. London handymen, kitchen fitters, decorators and general builders can also be contacted through our Tradesmen´s Directory, so if you feel that there may be elements of this project which may stretch your abilities, please do not hesitate to use this valuable resource.
Tags: Building Control, compact fluorescent light bulb, Decorating & Interior Design, downlight, electrical cabling, electrical circuit, Electrical Work, Electricians in London, eyeball light, Find an Electrician in London, floodlight, Home Improvements, interior decoration, kitchens, lighting, Part P Approval, recessed lighting, spotlight, wiring Posted in Electrical Work, Gardening & Landscaping, General Building, Handyman Services, Painting & Decorating | Comments Off
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